Undiscovered Osaka: Things to Do in Osaka in February

Welcome to another edition of Undiscovered Osaka. February is a short month but it’s packed with events. This month we introduce a great Chinese restaurant, a tattoo-friendly bathhouse, a zine shop and live music and art festivals. Since there is so much to do in Osaka, we will start listing our monthly food and drink picks in a separate article so the events don’t get shoved down to the very end. For more mainstream things to do in Osaka click here.

Chinese Restaurant: Gyozaya (Nishinari)

Address: 7-21 Tsurumibashi Nishinari-ku, Osaka, 557-0031. Tel: 06-6561-8576. Open: 11:00-14:30 (Lunch); 16:00-20:30 (Dinner). Closed: Mon, Tues. Instagram.

The Gist

Gyozaya is a classic, old-fashioned Chinese restaurant that’s been a staple in the same neighborhood for over 50 years. Featured on TV shows, in magazines, and consistently making food critics’ and bloggers’ best-of lists, it’s best known for its exceptional gyoza. The small staff of four makes 800 hand-crafted pieces a day, and there are eight different types to choose from.

The Back Story

Masaki Tanimura, the second-generation owner, is a warm, welcoming figure who greets his customers like old friends. His parents opened the shop in 1972, but Masaki had to take over the family business while in high school after his father’s sudden passing. It took him some time to master the menu, which now boasts over 70 items. Following in his father’s footsteps, Masaki created five innovative gyoza flavors that helped elevate the restaurant’s reputation.

The Experience

I first visited Gyozaya about five years ago with Wes Wesson. Located at the end of the Tsurumibashi Shotengai in a quiet corner of Nishinari Ward, the place is off the beaten path and doesn’t attract many foreign tourists. (In fact, there are only three English reviews on Google Maps, one of which is from a father and son who stumbled upon the shop while playing Pokémon Go.)

During that visit, we had a great chat with owner Masaki and his mother, Eiko, who turned out to have a relative living across the street from one of the schools I teach at. We decided to try the nira (garlic chives) , ninjin (carrot), and sudachi gyoza. We thought you were supposed to squeeze the sudachi slices (which looks like a lime) onto the gyoza for extra flavor, but Masaki and Eiko explained that you actually eat a slice with each piece of gyoza. This means you have to be pretty skillful with your chopsticks!

The gyoza itself was fantastic, and we briefly debated ordering more, but then our karaage (fried chicken) arrived. The moment we took a bite, we exchanged that knowing look — the one where you’re both so amazed by how good it is that you just smile at each other. The fried chicken was hot, crispy, juicy, and packed with simple but perfect flavor.

Outstanding Karaage Fried Chicken

Since that day, I’ve brought many friends to Gyozaya to share the gyoza and chicken. On my second visit, I learned we could order the exact number of chicken pieces we wanted, which is perfect for a group. I’ve been to many restaurants in Osaka, but Gyozaya is the one everyone always asks, “When are we going again?” One of these days, we’ll have to branch out and try some of the other items on the menu.

Music, Food, Booze: The Che High School Festival @ Ikuno Park

Date: Feb 1st and 2nd. Time: 11:00-19:00. Venue: Ikuno Park in Koreatown Admission: FREE

Address: 5-37 Momodani 5-Chome, Ikuno-ku, 544-0034. Tel:080-4704-0754. Open: 9:00-22:00. Website

Ikuno Park is a unique community hub located in Ikuno Koreatown. Formerly a Korean elementary school, this building was repurposed and officially reopened in 2023 as a multi-purpose event and activity space that houses several shops and restaurants. The transformation preserves the original charm of the school, making it possible to drink coffee and eat cake in a classroom at Cafe Hakari with the original desks and chairs intact.

Live music and food fairs are often held outside on the former school grounds. This month a local business in Ikuno called The Che Coffee has organized a two-day “music, food and booze festival” that will feature free live music performances and food stalls from eateries all over Osaka. The event will also include around 10 popup shops indoors.

Food and Beverage Vendors

The following shops will have stands at the frestival. Even if you can’t attend the event you can still follow them on Instagram. It’s a nice list of lesser-known restaurants in Osaka that are certainly worth exploring in 2025.

Both Days: THE CHE COFFEE (@thechecoffee), Yadokari (@yadokari_momodani_yurunomi), Yatai Jizo (@yatai_jizo) Hoffma (@hoffma_osaka), Archillt (@saketocurryarchillt), Megumino Curry (@megumino_curry), Hechikan (@sakaya_hechikan).February 1st Only: Manmaru Shokudou (@manmaru_shokudou). February 2nd Only: Menmi (@menmi0508men), Tenkomori (@tenkomori_organic), and SADAICHI (@sadaichi0724), Momozonoinn (@momozonoinn).

Live Music Performances

On Saturday, February 1st, the lineup begins with Tetsuchan’s Group Yoga (@techangchong) at 1:00 PM, followed by the brass band Lucha Libre (@lucha_libre_official_) at 3:00 PM. At 4:00 PM, Che Arisa (@paul511) will perform, followed by OLVAMAN (@olva.original) at 5:00 PM. The day wraps up with a “farewell” concert by THE PUN (@thechecoffee) at 6:00 PM.

On Sunday, February 2nd, the performances kick off with the idol group CAP48 (@heemapalooza) at 1:00 PM, followed by the hip-hop trio Sunrise (@sunrise_djam) at 2:00 PM. At 3:00 PM, Lucha Libre returns for another show, while THE PUN has a “comeback” performance at 4:00 PM. The evening continues with reggae from Bob Marcy (@shatta_zukie) at 5:00 PM and concludes with the Afro-inspired beats of Paul McCartommys (@afro.spot) at 6:00 PM.

South Korean Punk and Post Rock in Osaka

Korean music is so much more than the global phenomenon of K-pop groups like Black Pink and BTS that sell out arenas all over the world. This month, Osaka is hosting two buzzworthy bands from Korea’s independent scene, each bringing their unique sound to two small live houses in the city. Don’t miss this chance to discover music beyond the mainstream!

Pakk at Namba Bears on February 14th (Namba)

Map. Admission: ¥2,500/¥3,000 (People under 25 pay ¥1,500) Open: 18:30. Start: 19:00.

Pakk is a South Korean trio known for their unique blend of post-rock, grunge, psychedelia, hard rock, and shoegaze. Since forming in 2014, the band has released two albums, both earning nominations at the Korean Music Awards.

Namba Bears is a small live house owned by Yamamoto Seiichi, formerly of The Boredoms. It’s about a 10 minute walk from Namba Station and a very intimate place to see a show. The lineups supporting Pakk includes Yureka from Tokushima, O’Summer Vacation from Kobe, and Hyper Gal.

The Geeks at Hokage on February 2 (Shinsaibashi)

Map Admission: ¥3,500/¥4,500. Open: 14:00/14:30

The Geeks are marking their 25th anniversary with a special show at Hokage in Ame-Mura. Formed in 1999 by three schoolmates who discovered Korean hardcore on a compilation album, this South Korean hardcore punk band went on to become one of the first Korean punk acts to tour the world.

Joining The Geeks for this special event are Brave Out, Numbernine, Recluse, and True Fight. While the ticket price may feel high for a punk gig, opportunities to catch The Geeks live are rare these days, as all members now juggle full-time jobs. Don’t miss this chance to experience their ferocious performance. Reserve a discounted ¥3,500 ticket by emailing hokage-osaka@hotmail.co.jp.

New Paraiso Another World Festival in Chidoribashi (Feb 1-March 3rd)

Website (In English via Google Translate) Instagram

The Baika and Shinkanjima area in Konohana Ward, near Hanshin Chidoribashi Station, is one of several hidden hubs of Osaka’s underground scene, brimming with art, music, fashion, crafts, and other unfiltered activity that remains off the radar for most people, including long term residents. These incredible events, often held in obscure venues with minimal promotion, are brought to life by a diverse group of highly creative and talented individuals. Despite Chidoribashi’s proximity to Universal Studios Japan, many tourists who stay in the area remain completely unaware of the vibrant art scene unfolding right around them.

A Haven for Artists and Creative Types

How did this area become a haven for artists—the Portlandia of Osaka, if you will? It’s a long story, some of which I delve into in an article for The Japan Times. In short, it traces back to the family of Kenzo Masaoka (1898–1998), a pioneering animator often referred to as the “Japanese Walt Disney.” The family’s real estate company owns much of the property in the area, including old waterfront warehouses and rundown shops. Instead of demolishing them, they chose to rent them out at low costs to creative individuals, fostering a vibrant arts community.

New Paraiso: A Month-Long Festival featuring 50 Artists

The New Paraiso Another World Festival is a month-long arts celebration showcasing the work of over 50 artists and performers across various venues in Chidoribashi. While navigating these events might initially seem challenging if you don’t speak Japanese, don’t let that hold you back. The local scene is remarkably inclusive, featuring several non-Japanese participants, such as American Jerry Gordon, who runs MIIT House. Plus, you’ll find more than a few English speakers eager to help you along the way.

New Paraiso: Sugiura Kozue: Five venues in one day

If you’re unsure where to begin, I recommend checking out the event on February 2nd. Acclaimed musical inventor and noise artist Sugiura Kozue—famous for using unconventional instruments like a vacuum cleaner in place of a guitar—will be performing at five different venues in Chidoribashi. It’s an excellent way to experience the area’s quirky venues and connect with some of the scene’s key figures in just one day.

Sugiura Kozue’s performance schedule is as follows: Barrack Paradaiso (Start 14:02), Saboten Do (15:03), MIIT House, (16:04), Gallery Maho no Seikatsu (17:05), and Figya (18:06). If you do decide to visit Chidoribashi, check out this restaurant guide. I have also introduced a couple of essential places to visit below.

Chidori Onsen (Chidoribashi) Foreigner/Tattoo Friendly

Address:12-20 Baika 2-Chome, Konohana, Osaka, 554-0013. Tel:06-6463-3888. Hours: 14:30-23:30. Closed: Tues. Website. Twitter. Instagram

Chidori Onsen is a neighborhood hot springs bathhouse located just 6 minutes on foot from Hanshin Chidoribashi Station. The onsen was founded in 1952 and is famous for a large tile painting of Mount Fuji inside made with small bean tiles. The wide shallow bathtub, one of the largest in Osaka, is shallow and safe for children and you can use the sauna for free. Snacks are sold at the counter that will also appeal to children of all ages.

In 2017 Chidori Onsen, which is located only 3km from Universal Studios Japan was purchased by a bicycle enthusiast who then attempted to change the name to “Jitensha no Yu” (“Bicycle Bath). After locals objected to the name change a compromise was reached in which both names are currently used. Cyclists traveling around Osaka are warmly welcomed and there is even space inside for folding bicycles.

In order to make foreign guests feel welcome, the owner hired a manga artist to illustrate a colorful pamphlet in English and other languages explaining how to take a bath in an onsen for those who are unfamiliar with the etiquette, manners and payment system. Visitors to Osaka with ink will be happy to know that Chidori Onsen is tattoo-friendly.

Prices: Adults (junior high school students and above): 520 yen. Middle and elementary school students: 200 yen. Children (Kindergarten and below): 100 yen. 10 tickets can be purchased for 5,000 yen.

Shikaku: Zine Shop and Gallery (Chidoribashi)

Address: 6-13 Baika 1 Chome, Konohana-ku. Osaka, 554-0013. Open:Mon, Thur, Fri: 14:00-20:00; Sat, Sun: 13:00-19:00. Closed: Tues, Wed. Instagram website

Shikaku is a small zine, publisher, independent bookstore and gallery tucked away in a residential neighborhood in the Baika area near Hanshin Chidoribashi Station. Owner Yuki Takeshige first encountered zines and self published books as a high school student. She decided to open a small store in Nakatsu selling zines, mini-comics, doujinshi, and small press publications and moved to the current location in 2017.

Takeshige also publishes books that are of interest to her. The shop has been essential in connecting the Osaka zine scene to similar shops in Tokyo and other parts of Japan. Shikaku also developed strong ties with zine publishers and shops in Taiwan, which like Japan, has a small but flourishing zine community.

I’ve bought a number of zines and small publications from Shikaku over the years, and the best way to introduce the shop is to jump right in and show some of the titles they carry. Zines in Japan have a strong visual element, so you don’t always need to be able to read Japanese to appreciate the contents.

Zines, Zines, Zines!

The zines mentioned here are in the photos and all the English titles are approximate English translations. First up is The Water Tank Appreciation Guide (Twitter:@watertoweruc). This blogger simply loves Water Tanks on roofs and towers. The zine next to is called Shikui: The Dizzying World of Curved Street Signs (Twitter: @hyoushiqui). The title says it all. Pages of curved street signs. Obsessive otaku culture can be truly a wondrous thing.

Genius at Work

The next zine is one of my personal favorites: That’s Collage Notebook, published by @creamciderkun on Instagram. These collages and parody products are hilarious, such as bottles of Book Off and 551 Horai perfume. Now you can smell like old books or gyoza on the train. Check out this page with a naan bicycle seat, a slice of ham in a DVD case, chikuwa bike handles and thickness 0.03 manju/condom parody mash up. Genius!

In/Sects is a fairly well-known independent publisher that covers a wide range of interesting topics. This is their extensive guide to Osaka. Instagram. The zine next to it is Monthly Buildings, which is published by the Building Mania blog. This issue is devoted to the Misono Building in Osaka. Finally we have Central Vietnam Foodie Trip, which was written by this blogger. Fantastic photos and illustrations inside.

Coffee Shops, Rusty Trains and Travelogues

Moving right along. Coffee Shop Person is a beautiful guide to old nostalgic junkissa coffee shops (Instagram). The next two zines are Showa Era Streets published by writer Masaharu Takebe: “Disappearing Shopping Streets” and “High Density Buildings” A must for anyone interested in the Showa Era.

I forgot all about this next one. Re+Train by Kohei Ichiman contains photos of rusty abandoned old trains across Japan. Berkeley: Two Weeks, Just Stay, Walk and Eat Around is published by Monmon Books. Another zine with incredible illustrations and photos. Nice to see a travelogue of the USA from a Japanese perspective. And last but not least, a self-published manga called Red Bean Paste and Graffiti about wandering the streets of Tokyo by illustrator Kana Nakamura.

Sister Paul and The Yayako at Club Stomp (Feb 22)

Open: 18:30. Start: 19:00. ¥2,000/¥2,500+1 drink.

Stop the presses! Hours before the deadline for this article, I found out about this must-see show at Club Stomp. Sister Paul is an androgynous duo who combine 70s David Bowie, Lou Reed, Sparks and glam rock with the 80s New Wave sounds of The Cars and Talking Heads. Their original songs such as “Ride My Motorcycle” are fantastic but they also perform killer versions of “Just What I Needed” and “Psycho Killer”. Sister Paul has toured as the back up band for Richard Strange of 70s UK band Doctors of Madness.

The Yayako are a duo that can best be described as a very raw version of the The White Stripes crossed with Guitar Wolf and King Brothers. I’ve seen both bands twice in Osaka and they both put on incredible shows. Two more bands, ASSTNT and Hechavarría round out the lineup. The DJ at this event will be DJ Masa of Rock and Roll License who plays rare singles from a wide range of artists such as Elvis Presley and The Rip-Offs.