Welcome to an new monthly column that introduces shops, events and places of interest that are off the beaten path. For major cultural events and please click on January Joys: Things to do In Osaka in January.
Table of Contents
Art
Nakanoshima Museum of Art Osaka
Map Website Open: 10:00-17:00.
This exhibition definitely does not fall under the category of “Undiscovered Osaka,” but it is not to be missed for anyone with even the slightest interest in Japanese art, especially Ukiyo-e, which translates as pictures of the floating world. (We’ll start introducing lesser-known artists next month).
Utagawa Kuniyoshi (1797–1861), a renowned Ukiyo-e artist of the late Edo period, created groundbreaking works that not only shaped the history of Ukiyo-e but also garnered widespread popularity both in Japan and internationally.
Known for his eccentric ideas, distinctive sense of design, and sense of humor, Kuniyoshi’s art continues to captivate audiences today, transcending the boundaries of both his era and the Ukiyo-e genre.
This major exhibition, the definitive showcase of Kuniyoshi’s work, presents around 400 Ukiyo-e prints and rare hand-painted pieces spanning a diverse range of genres, from samurai depictions to caricatures.
Admission Adults: ¥1,800 University/High School ¥1,500 Junior High Elementary School ¥500
Eat
Kyushu Ramen Kiou 九州らーめん亀王
Website 15 Locations in Osaka.
On a chilly winter day, I stopped by a ramen shop near Juso Station and had one of the best bowls of black miso garlic pork bone ramen (¥990) I’ve ever tasted. The gyoza (¥350) was equally delicious, and as I left, I found myself wanting to learn more about the history of the shop.
Kyushu Ramen Kiou is a popular ramen chain with 15 locations in Osaka, rapidly gaining favor among international visitors. Operated by Daishingyo Co., Ltd., which was founded in Osaka in 1963 as a Chinese restaurant, the chain launched Ramen Kiou in 1995, specializing in salted pork bone broth. Today, it boasts 17 shops across the Kansai region and one in Singapore.
One feature that sets Ramen Kiou apart from other chains is its approach to tailoring the menu at each location to reflect the unique atmosphere of the neighborhood and the tastes of the local clientele. For example, at the Dotombori shop, where 90% of customers are foreign (mainly from China and Korea), the company has hired staff from overseas to better cater to their needs.
Ramen For Vegans
After foreign customers started asking for the vegan options, the president of the company traveled to the USA and visited over 100 ramen shops that had a vegan menu. After much trial and error they developed a tonkotsu ramen using soy milk, sesame, garlic and other ingredients to create the thickness of the broth. They also created their own noodles that are free of eggs and alcohol.
Vegan Tonkotsu Ramen is now available at Ramen Kiou JR Shin Osaka! This winter, surprise your vegan friends by inviting them to slurp up a bowl of ramen. They’ll be like, “But I can’t eat ramen!” and you can respond casually with,”Oh really? Care to make a little wager?” Win-win for everyone!
Onsen
Yukai no Yu (Neyagawa Branch)
Map Website Open Everyday from 08:00-24:00
You don’t have to travel far to experience a Japanese onsen. Yukai no Yu is beautiful spacious indoor hot springs that includes three three open-air baths and a sauna located only 30 minutes from Osaka City. This hot springs is known for having reasonably priced restaurants that serve delicious food.
What’s that you say? Admission is only ¥1,080 and elementary school age kids and younger are free? “The admission fee includes use of the drink bar (juice, tea, etc.), 60,000 manga titles available for unlimited reading (including e-books), foot massage machines, and retro video game consoles.” Take my money! Take it now! There is even a bouldering gym for kids.
Please note that bath towel rental fee is 260 yen and there is an additional fee of 700 yen for usage of the bedrock baths but you can download coupons here and save money. Yukai no Yu has another location in Kadoma.
Coffee Shop
Kissa Roa in Namba 喫茶ロア
Address: 13-5 Sennichimae, Namba, Chuo-Ku, Osaka 542-0075. Tel: 06-6643-4080
Kissa Roa is a 60 year old coffee shop located in an alley on Sennichimae in Ura Namba. It’s a 2 minute walk from Osaka Metro Namba Station Exit 9.
Roa hasn’t changed much in six decades. The old shop is filled with old paintings, antique clocks an elegant old mirror, a pink rotary pay phone, and a beloved chandelier that the owner has maintained with pride.
Because of its close proximity to the Namba Grand Kagetsu theater, the coffee shop has been a frequent haunt of famous celebrities who perform as part of the Yoshimoto Shinkigeki comedy troupe, but this hasn’t hasn’t affected prices, which remain very low. Coffee is only ¥450 and most of the retro style dishes such as Mixed Sand (club sandwich) and katsu curry rice (deep fried pork cutlets in curry) are in the 700-800 yen range.
Filmmakers in search of an authentic retro coffee shop from the 60s and 70s would have no trouble filming in Roa without having to change much of the decor.
Outdoors
Hachioji Shrine in Higashinari Ward 八王子神社
Address: 2-4 Nakamoto 4 Chome, Higashinariku, Osaka 537-0022.
八王子神社 (Hachioji Shrine) is a Shinto shrine located in Higashinari-ku, Osaka. While not as famous as larger shrines like Sumiyoshi Taisha or Osaka Tenmangu, it holds historical and local significance as a place of worship and community gathering.
I can think of no better shrine to welcome the Year of The Snake. One of the main attractions of Hachioji Shrine is a two-headed snake statue, which represents the Dragon King, revered as Hachitatsu Ryuo Daimyojin (八立龍王大明神), who is said to have ascended from a pond within the shrine grounds in ancient times.
This deity is enshrined in a subordinate shrine (massha) of Hachioji Shrine and is noted in the shrine’s records as a guardian deity (shugoshin) for protection against calamities and for promoting the prosperity of businesses.
The snake/dragon statue represents a unified figure with two heads, embodying the traditional Shinto concept of A-un (阿吽), which symbolizes the cosmic cycle of inhalation (creation) and exhalation (destruction).
Holding a sacred jewel (hoju), the statue is prominently displayed at the front of the shrine. Its singular, cohesive design breaks from the usual practice of crafting two separate statues for symmetry, making it a unique and striking feature.
The shrine is located in Higashinari-ku, Osaka about 500 meters southwest of Midoribashi Station on the Osaka Metro Chuo Line.
Music
Prefab Hearts, Fruits in Jelly, The Astronauts at Agotta (January 17th)
Address: 1-15 Higashi Shinsaibashi 2 Chome, Chuo-ku, Osaka 542-0083.
Rhythm & Kushikatsu Agotta is a James Brown-themed kushikatsu restaurant in Higashi Shinsaibashi owned by singer Haruko Sakuragawa and her husband Yasuhiro Ando, the singer of Osaka rock band The Takosan. In addition to mouthwatering kushikatsu, the shop hosts pay-what-you-wish (nagesen) live shows on weekends that are a blast.
The Prefab Hearts are a power pop band who take their name from a song by an Australian band called The Reels. The band has organized a show at Agotta called Misspent Youth #5 that will also feature new wave band Fruits in Jelly and another band called The Astronauts. These intimate gigs are a lot of fun, but be sure to order food an drinks in order to support the venue. Seriously, the kushikatsu here is better than famous places in Shinsekai!
Bluefish Night #5 at Club Stomp: Punk Rock in Osaka (February 1st)
*Yes, it’s in February but the weekend starts in January. Rock on!
Address:13-32 Takara Building, Higashi Shinsaibashi 1 Chome, Chuo-Ku, Osaka 542-0083. Tel:090-9110-3863. Instagram
Club Stomp is a beat up live house in Higashi Shinsaibashi that has been booking some of my favorite punk shows. I find that the venue is just the right size and the sound system is excellent. You can take a break from the mayhem of the live shows by taking a break at the bar, which is conveniently located in the back of the venue.
Bluefish Night is a curated event that features bands from Japan and abroad that play power pop, 1977 style punk like The Sex Pistols and Buzzcocks, post punk such as Killing Joke, The Stranglers and Wire The crowd is often made up of members of local bands and you’ll see the same faces at every show. It’s a great way to make friends with like-minded music fans who enjoy talking about music in a mix of Japanese and English.
This event is headlined by Whizz from Komatsu who have a new E.P. out. Joining them are two bands from Tokyo: Rangsteen, and Abe and The Shits. Rounding out the lineup will be the legendary Mersey Beat, an Osaka band that dates back to the mid-80s and EDOC, but I couldn’t find anything about them online. DJ Mokuo will be spinning rare and obscure UK punk singles between sets. Do not miss this show!
OPEN 18:00 START 18:30. ADV ¥2,500+1D DOOR ¥3,000+1D. Email bluefishnight@gmail.com to reserve an advanced ticket.
Drink
Film Bar Wunder: Movie Themed Cocktail Bar
Address: A.H. Higashi Shinsaibashi Building 2F, 3-11 1 Chome Higashi Shinsaibashi, Chuo-ku, Osaka, 542-0083. Facebook Instagram
Film Bar Wunder, located in Higashi Shinsainbaishi is owned by movie-lover who makes cocktails based on the films he has seen over the years. If you go to his Instagram page you’ll see drinks inspired by Poor Things, Coach Carter, Bagdad Cafe, Oppenheimer and a host of other movie titles.
My friend Jeremy and I visited Film Bar Wunder after seeing a live show in Shinsaibashi. We had a nice chat with the owner, who is extremely knowledgeable about films and a fan of director Jim Jarmusch (“Down By Law, Mystery Train, Ghost Dog). I was able to suggest a film he had never heard of: Trees Lounge, the directorial debut of actor Steve Buscemi that just happens to take place in a bar. Unfortunately it was only released on VHS in Japan and very hard to find.
Jeremy ordered a cocktail based on Kill Bill by Quentin Tarantino that came with a sword. I was in the mood for something sour so the owner suggested, Passoã, a passion-fruit liqueur made in France. Needless to say it was delicious and refreshing. I intend to go back to Film Bar Wunder soon and talk about movies with more of the regular customers. A very friendly spot that serves excellent drinks.
Film
The Friends of Eddie Coyle at PLANET+1 on January 19th
Address: Pilot Building, 3-1-2 Nakazakicho 2-Chome, Kita-ku, Osaka 530-0016.
Planet+1 is a small movie theater in the Nakazakicho area near Umeda that houses one of the largest collection of film archives and films prints. The theater, which sits 35, screens different films almost every night of the week including obscure independent gems, Hollywood classics and rare Japanese and international films that have not been shown in theaters for decades.
You can see the entire lineup for the month of January here, but our recommended pick this month is the 1973 neo-noir crime film The Friends of Eddie Coyle, which was directed by Peter Yates and stars Robert Mitchum as a low-level gun runner in the Irish mob in Boston. The film was based on the acclaimed novel by George V. Higgins and also stars Peter Boyle, Richard Jordan and Alex Rocco.
Going to a film screening with other film buffs in Osaka is a nice way to break the pattern of watching movies on a streaming service such as Netflix or Prime. There is a wonderful cafe on the first floor called Taiyo no To that serves coffee, beer, light dishes and dessert in which film fans can gather after screenings.
