Table of Contents
Introduction
Now that Expo 2025 is here parts of Osaka such as Namba and Umeda will be even more crowded than usual. I don’t like to complain about the influx of foreign tourists, because it’s nice to see people having such a great time in Osaka. I see it in their faces: people are generally thrilled to be here, and the energy of nightlife spots such as Dotombori is off the charts. It’s easy for long-timers to become cynical about the crowds, but you have to remember what it was like on your very first night out—the excitement of trying new foods and seeing the Glico Man for the very first time. And despite what you may have read, the majority of the 14.6 million foreign visitors to Osaka are quite respectful of the culture.
That being said, there are times when even tourists need to get away from the crowds and experience a different part of the city like a local. I’ve chosen Abiko and Nagai specifically because both Osaka Metro stations are very easy to get to from Namba in under 20 minutes without having to change trains. The area is also easily accessible if your taking the JR Lines from other parts of Osaka. I think you’ll also find that the prices are much lower here than the more congested parts of the city, some places shockingly so, especially with the weak yen.
I’ve been to both areas many times over the past couple of years, and the following are some places that I recommend highly that have a true local feel. I hope you have as much fun here—making new friends and enjoying a slower paced part of the city— as I did.
Part I: Day Drinking with the Tachinomi Queen
For the first part of this article I came up with an itinerary for a barhop that would start around noon and finish before dusk. It looked doable on paper, but so many things can go wrong when your planning a hop of an unfamiliar area. So I invited a renowned expert to join me: my good friend Tomi Kaai, otherwise known as “The Tachinomi Queen.” Kaai has been blogging about deep spots all over Kansai for over 15 years, and has been to more restaurants and bars than anyone I know. She has a column in a national sports newspaper and frequently appears on radio and television. In addition, she’s also a very talented illustrator. You can see some of her illustrations here.
I say without exaggeration that Kaai has set the blueprint for blogging about standing bars and izakaya. She has introduced many wonderful watering holes to me over the years and it was time to return the favor. As luck would have it, Kaai had only been to only one place on my itinerary (and she barely remembered it), so it was a chance for her to introduce some new spots to loyal readers of her blog, kansai-onna.com, which covers everything from convenient store snacks and dive bars to upscale restaurants in Japan and Asia.
Abikochō Station 我孫子町 (JR)
Kaai and I meet shortly after noon at Abikocho Station on the Hanwa Line that runs from Osaka to Wakayama. Abikocho is only four stops from Tennoji Station, a major hub in Osaka that connects Osaka Metro, The JR Loop Line and the Kintestu Minami Osaka Line.
We’re starting off a bit out of the way because the first place on my itinerary is nearby. There are several stations named ‘Abiko’ in Sumiyoshi Ward, and some are on the other side of town, so be sure to double-check, even if you’re using GPS on your smartphone. Most of the places we will be visiting in this area are closer to Osaka Metro Abiko Station, which is about 11 minutes away on foot.
Tachinomi-dokoro Yottette～ 立ち呑み処よってってぇ～
Address: 3-8-12 Abiko, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka City, 558-004. Open: 12:00-21:00.
Standing Bar Yottete is located between JR Abikocho Station and Abiko Station on the Osaka Metro Midosuji Line. Yottette~ (よってってぇ～) is a playful or casual Kansai-style phrase meaning “Come by!”, “Drop in!”, or “Stop by!” It’s one of the few places in the area that is open at noon, which makes it perfect for day drinkers. We pass through the yellow curtains and take our place at the bar. Kaai has a chat with the owner, a friendly woman who decided to start her own bar after spending years working in various restaurants.
The counter at Yottete faces the kitchen area so you can see all of your dishes being prepared right before your eyes. After ordering drinks we glance at the specials written on a white board in black marker. Kaai is happy that they have a nice selection of sake and shochu, which she prefers over beer. She points out that there are some unique options such as ginseng liquor and rum, catering to those looking for something different. As a beer drinker, I often glance over these options so it’s nice to have a fresh set of eyes on board.
I order a Kirin Beer on tap which is perfectly poured with just the correct ratio of foam to lager. Kaai surprises me by ordering the same. I know that she’ll be switching to shochu or a hi-ball, which she seems to prefer, but it’s nice that we got a photo of our two beers side by side to document the first kampai of our hop. I’m probably getting carried away, because the way I’m talking about this photo, you’d think it belonged on a commemorative stamp celebrating great moments in drinking history.
Mountain Vegetable Festival
The owner tells Kaai that she had just stocked up on wild spring vegetables. In fact she decided to have an impromptu ‘Mountain Vegetable Festival’ this month. Kaai was elated because she is a self-described “fan of wild vegetables” We learn that the owner herself picks these vegetables, leveraging her connections with family and friends to source the best ingredients, ensuring top-quality dishes every time.
Koshiabura Ohitashi
We start off with Koshi Abura Ohitashi, which Kaai describes on her blog as “a wild vegetable with minimal bitterness that was lightly blanched, retaining its vibrant green color and crisp texture. The flavor was reminiscent of a stronger garland chrysanthemum, adding a refreshing bite to the meal.” Koshiabura translates as “Acanthopanax sciadophylloides” in English and that still doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me as a novice, so I had to look it up. This blogger refers to it as “Sansai no Joo” or “The Queen of Edible Wild Plants.”
Bamboo Shoots with Kinome Dressing
Kaai then ordered bamboo shoots with a dressing made from kinome (young soft leaves of the Japanese herb prickly ash), olive oil, lemon juice and salt and pepper. These bamboo shoots were personally dug up by the owner, and their freshness shone through with a crunchy texture and a fragrant aroma from the kinome leaves. Kaai said it was rare to find such quality at such an accessible price, making the experience even more enjoyable.
Mountain Vegetable Kakiage
The third dish was absolutely amazing and made me a fan of wild mountain vegetable for life: Mountain Vegetable Kakiage, a mixed vegetable tempura filled with onions, carrots, and mitsuba (Japanese parsley), which Kaai pointed out added color and enhanced the overall flavor. She wrote in her blog (translation): “Each bite felt like a taste of spring, with the essence of wild mountain vegetables spreading throughout my mouth.” I am so glad she is here because the her “color commentary” has been very helpful so far. A real professional.
Our hop was off to a great start. Kaai wrote: “In recent years, opportunities to enjoy seasonal foods have become rarer, and I often found myself just admiring spring wild vegetables from afar, thinking they were too expensive. But to have my first taste in Abiko, at a standing bar, and at such an affordable price, was pure happiness.” This means a lot, coming from her and I am glad she had a good time.
Vegans might find Yottette~ to be a more affordable alternative to some of the better-known (and often pricey) vegan restaurants in Osaka. However, I can’t confirm whether the vegetables are cooked separately from meat, so it’s best to check with the staff before ordering.
Making a New Friend
While enjoying our food and drinks, I had a nice chat with a regular customer who was 90 years old at the time of our visit. Unlike Kaai, who wrote up her visit to Yottete in about a week, I ended up writing a series of five articles about Sumiyoshi Ward, which took a bit longer than I anticipated. So, I had to go back last year for “reshoots” to make sure the menu and atmosphere hadn’t changed drastically.
When I walked through the door two years later, I was elated to see that my old friend—now 92—was as sprightly as ever. Notice that I wore the exact same shirt and hat for “continuity,” but perhaps I should have shaved my beard and worn the same glasses for the full effect.
Abiko Station Osaka Metro
The walk to Abiko Station was pleasant, but I now realize that we didn’t need to meet at Abikocho Station. Everything on the itinerary is about 5 minutes away on foot and our next destination, Nagai Station, is only one stop away. If you buy an Enjoy Eco Card you can ride Osaka Metro all day. Prices are 820 yen on weekdays and 620 on Saturday, Sunday and public holidays.
Abiko Kannon あびこ観世音菩薩
Address: 4-1-20 Abiko, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0014. Open: 7:00-17:00.
Most visitors know about Sumiyoshi Taisha, the most famous shrine in Osaka, but Abiko Kannon, located only 5 minutes from Abiko Station is still relatively unknown, but equally as impressive. Established in 1400, it is the first temple built by the Kannon Sect in Osaka. Abiko Kannon is famed for its rituals to ward off bad luck. The temple is crowded with worshippers on Setusbun, which takes place on February 3rd. It’s a day when people pray for a year free of misfortune. It’s also known for healing amulets which are available in the main temple.
The grounds of the temple contain striking statues, ancient camphor trees and a decorative pond with huge koi fish. If you’re in Osaka and can’t get to Kyoto then visiting Abiko Kannon and Sumiyoshi Taisha is the next best thing. You’ll have to deal with far less crowds and shops hawking overpriced cheap trinkets and souvenirs to the masses. And best of all, there will be plenty of time for barhopping after your visit.
Abiko Mochi Honpo あびこ餅本舗
Address: 3-6-15 Abiko, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0014. Open: 9:30-18:00. Closed: Tues. Website
On the way to our next destination I spot a shop named Abiko Mochi Honpo that sells wagashi, traditional Japanese sweets. The sign says that the shop has been in business for over 70 years. Since I intend to stay out late, I decide to pick up a treat for my wife and daughter as a preemptive strike against any stern looks when I stumble through the door at some ungodly hour reeking of cheap booze and cigarettes.
Abiko Mocho Honpo is famous for Yakuyoke Manju, steamed buns believed to ward off bad luck and evil spirits. The buns are made with a wheat flour dough flavored with Okinawan brown sugar, and filled with sweet red bean paste made from Hokkaido-grown azuki beans. The second-generation owner first created Yakuyoke Manju in 1953, following advice from the wife of the head priest of Abiko Kannon at the time. These manju are a popular item for visitors returning from Abiko Kannon, since the temple is located only a few minutes away on foot.
I worry that my wife and daughter might be insulted if I brought them something to ward off evil spirits, so I buy a couple of packages of Ichigo Daifuku, a sweet made of soft mochi rice that contains an entire strawberry inside. I just hope I don’t lose the bag before I get home.
Standing Bar Okan no Mise 立ち飲みおかんの店
Address: 7-9-3 Karita, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0011. Open: 12:00-21:00. Closed: Thur.
We stumbled on this place by accident and decided to go in immediately. Let me explain. Many of my friends used to go to a wonderful little standing bar in Nishinari called “Okan” that was run by a tough-as-nails octogenarian with a heart of gold from Okinawa. Sadly, she had passed away a month earlier and we were very upset about it.
The moment we came across “Okan no Mise” knew we had to go in and have a drink in her memory. I got the feeling that this was a place frequented mainly by locals, because at the time, we could not find a single mention on the internet (not that it matters). Being experienced standing bar drinkers we knew it is pointless to hesitate, and walked right in without a second thought. I have to admit that in the past I might have circled the block a few times to muster up the courage to enter.
Inside Okan no Mise
Inside, the few tables were all occupied so we took seats at the semi-circular counter. Despite being labeled as a standing bar, seating is available, which is becoming more and more common these days since the clientele is getting up there in years. Kaai called these type of seats “standing-nomi chairs” The counter showcases a variety of appetizers, with bottles of sake and other snacks arranged casually, giving the place a laid-back and comfortable vibe. We thought the shop dated back to the Showa era but were informed it opened in 2020.
Okan no Mise is the kind of place that has a showcase on the counter, making it easier for customers to choose from a selection ready-made dishes and fish and vegetables that they would like prepared. The counter was lined with bottles of sake and light snacks that pair well with sake such as stalks of cheese and fish sausage. The white board on the wall featured specials of the day such as yakisoba, yakiudon, onigiri, and gyoza, and I didn’t notice anything over 300 yen.
Fried Tofu and Baked Potato
We ordered two bottles of Kirin Beer, which arrived chilled to perfection. Kaai ordered Yakage, a dish of fried tofu skin soaked in a sweet and savory broth that was garnished with chopped green onions and grated ginger. The simple beauty of this dish never fails to amaze me, and this particular serving, which was cooked to perfections, was especially robust and flavorful. I was tempted to order another helping.
Kaai has a remarkable talent for describing food (that is not lost in translation) so I’m going to let her describe the next dish: “The Yaki Jaga (grilled potato) was an unexpected delight. After a short wait, the dish arrived on a floral-patterned plate with a fork, the potato split into two for easy eating. The potato, cooked with its skin on, was crispy on the outside and soft on the inside, with butter melted into it, making it incredibly flavorful. A dollop of mayonnaise added richness to this simple yet delicious dish. The staff mentioned that they sometimes use high-quality potatoes from Hokkaido, depending on the season—something to look forward to on future visits.”
Meeting the Regulars
Kaai later said she was somewhat uneasy upon entering such a local spot but relieved after the regular customers and staff quickly warmed up to us. I can understand her feeling. Imagine if I walked into a local watering hole in say, Jackson, Wyoming without knowing a single soul? We didn’t spend much time in Okan no Mise but by the end of our visit I was doing an arm-in-arm a jig with a friendly regular in a red shirt that could have won fifth prize at any local talent show in Osaka.
This new discovery will never replace the original “Okan”, but it did help us honor her memory in our own small way. She is still missed.
Tonsoku no Hidechan 豚足のひでちゃん
Address: 7-2-17 Karita, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0011. Open: Wed-Fri 12:00-23:00. Sat/Sun: 12:00-22:30. Closed: Mon/Tue
After leaving Okan, we headed to a small standing bar called Tonsoku no Hidechan that Kaai wanted to cover on her blog. The shop specializes in braised pork trotters, something that I did enjoy the few times I’ve had it, but rarely order on my own, perhaps due to a bias against eating feet, so I refrained from trying it.
Kaai later wrote on her blog (translation): “The meat is firmly attached to the bone, but when you pick it with chopsticks, it’s so tender that it falls apart. It’s chewy and springy. The more you chew, the more the rich umami and sweet and spicy flavor spreads. It’s rich while you’re eating it, but it has a light aftertaste that makes it easy to finish.”
Sounds like I missed a real feast! Well, it won’t be hard to go back. Who wants to join me?
Standing Bar Tora 立呑み黄猫
Address: 5-18-4 Karita, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0011. Tel: 06-6608-0632. Open: 14:00-22:00. Closed: Tues.
If you’re a Hanshin Tigers fan, Standing Bar Tora in Osaka’s Abiko district offers an excellent spot for affordable and delicious daytime drinks. Just a three-minute walk from Abiko Station on the Midosuji Line, this cozy bar is known as “Tora”—meaning “tiger”—though the kanji on the sign (黄猫) actually translates to “Yellow Cat.” With its bright yellow lanterns, curtains, and tiger-striped flags, it’s easy to spot and a true haven for Hanshin Tigers fans.
A True Haven for Hanshin Tigers Fans
The first thing you notice when you step into the bar is the sheer amount of memorabilia—every inch of wall space is covered. Batting helmets, caps, jerseys, bobbleheads, pennants, signed baseballs, plush dolls, energy drinks, figurines, towels, paper fans, lanterns—you name it, it’s probably there. There’s also a wild assortment of toys and knickknacks too numerous to list. It feels like a laid-back version of the Hanshin Tigers Hall of Fame, only here you can pull up a stool, order a cold beer, and watch the game on TV surrounded by fellow fans. As luck would have it, the Tigers were playing the Yomiuri Giants that day—Japanese baseball’s most intense rivalry.
Standing Bar Tora runs on a cash-on-delivery system: when you order, you drop your money into a sake box labeled “Payment Box” in exchange for your food and drinks. It’s a good idea to bring along some small bills and coins. I’m always surprised by how many visitors head out into Osaka without yen in their wallets—especially since many places like this don’t take PayPay or credit cards. Cash still rules in Japan.
Food and Drinks for the Game
I ordered a beer and was a bit surprised when the young woman behind the counter cracked open a bottle of Kirin Shibori—one of my favorites, no doubt. But wait, isn’t Kirin the proud sponsor of the hated Giants? I’m sure there are more than a few bars out there for diehard Tigers fans that serve only Asahi, which has been the official sponsor of the team for decades. Then again, this place doesn’t seem too concerned with those kinds of “rules”—there’s a Hiroshima Carp jersey on the wall and a few Kintetsu Buffaloes items scattered around.
I didn’t anything greasy or fried right off the bat, pardon the pun so I ordered Avocado Tomato, which was priced quite reasonably considering the fact that you practically need a second mortgage to buy an avocado these days. Kaai ordered one of her favorites, Katsuo Shiokara (salted bonito stomach), which goes really well with beer, although I must say it doesn’t look very appetizing at first glance.
Next, we ordered Mochi Bacon, a skewer of grilled rice cake wrapped in bacon that included a sprinkle of spicy seasoning. I wanted a real Osaka dish so I ordered the Hormone Mix, a nice selection of choice cuts of grilled offal, which I realize is not for everyone, but the way it is prepared in a sweet savory sauce might convince more than one person to expand their palette, and give hormone another chance.
A Momentary Lapse of Reason
Kaai had been a good sport, sticking with beer for my sake, but she eventually broke free and ordered a highball—which arrived in a surprisingly large glass. As I looked around, it hit me: we were the only ones in the bar more focused on the food in front of us than the game on the screen.
There was a time when I was really into pro baseball, but that interest faded as I got older, and I haven’t watched a game in years. For a moment, I started questioning myself—sitting here in a “vintage” Tigers cap, unable to name a single current player. Was I just another poser, like when you see Justin Bieber in an Iron Maiden shirt, even though he’s probably never listened to a single track?
But then I snapped out of it, took a long sip of beer, and remembered—nobody here cares about that kind of existential nonsense. Not in this cozy little bar, not with the game on and the drinks flowing. Go Tigers!
Nagai Station (JR/Osaka Metro)
JR Nagai Station is on the Hanwa Line, which makes getting there from Abikocho a breeze, and Osaka Metro Nagai is just one stop away from Abiko on the Midosuji Line. The station is across the street from Nagai Park, a large sports complex in Higashi Sumiyosh Ward that contains three sports complexes, including Nagai Stadium where professional J-League team Celeste Osaka plays soccer. You don’t have to be into sports to enjoy a stroll in the park on a beautiful day. You can even barbecue in the park. More information can be found here.
Nagai Park is also the site of the Nagai Botanical Gardens, “which has over 1,000 species of trees and flowers; a swimming pool and gymnasium; and a tract of preserved local forest. It also hosts a large number of cherry trees and is a popular area for picnics during cherry blossom season in early spring” (Source Wikipedia). Since Japan allows public drinking, it’s also a great place to crack open a beer outside.
Tanakaya Saketen 田中屋酒店
Address: 4-6-7 Nagaihigashi, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0004. 06-6551-0198. Open: 16:00-21:00. Closed: Mon.
Tanaka is the 4th most popular surname in Japan, so it’s understandable that there are a lot of standing bars in Japan called Tanaka Saketen (Tanaka Liquor Shop.) About a decade a go I tallied up a list of all the Tanaka standing bars in Osaka and made plans to visit them all. Tanakaya Honten in Namba was one of the first standing bars I visited regularly, but it sadly closed.
No worries, I moved on to the next one on the list: Tanakaman Saketen in Nishi-Nakajima Minamigata, which was even more amazing. I always planned to go back but it, too, closed about a year later. Tanakaya in Taisho is still going strong, but I was so disillusioned by this point that I abandoned my quest.
Tanakaya Saketen, located less than a minute from an exit to Nagai Station, was actually the fourth standing bar on my list, so I was glad we finally dropping in for a quick drink after so many years. Inside, we found a typical kaku-uchi set up: a long bar counter and a few tables. There are no seats. Smoking was permitted when we visited, so keep that in mind if you can’t stand the smell of smoke.
The Kimura-Kun Mystery | Le Mystère Kimura-Kun
The menu listed a selection of light snacks and canned goods. The daily specials were written on a chalkboard hanging on the wall behind the counter, including age-dofu, hamburg, grilled fish and something called Kimura-Kun. Was this a menu item or the name of one of the staff members? We decided to order it and find out. Sometimes it’s more fun not to ask questions.
It turns out Kimura-Kun is a block of cold tofu topped with a generous helping of kimchi. A quick check online reveals several recipes for Kimuraya-kun consisting of cold udon and kimchi with a splash of chili oil. It seems to have originated in Osaka. Kaai said she easily can make it at home but it tastes better here.
Asahi Black and Takara Hi-Ball
I was happy to see the shop carried cans of Asahi Black Beer. Kaai ordered her usual Takara Hi-Ball with 7% alcohol. Kaai often states she drinks 365 days a year and she can really hold her alcohol. I better slow down before I end up unconscious in an Osaka back-alley with my wallet missing and no memory of the past 24 hours. Some of my friend swear by highballs but I avoid them like the plague due to the high alcohol content.
Tanakaya Honten is a proper kaku-uchi (a standing bar in a liquor store). Due to licensing restrictions they are not allowed to cook food on the premises, but they are permitted to bring in food prepared at a different location and heat it up. A perfect example of this would be the grilled salmon we ordered. It was crispy and delicious and came with a bit of shredded cabbage as a garnish. Not bad for only 300 yen.
We only stayed for thirty minutes before dashing off to the next place on our list. I’d like to return soon and spend a bit more time here.
Standing Bar Kuro Neko 立呑み処黒ねこ
Address:1F Neo Plaza, 2-12-8 Nagai, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0003. Tel: 06-6699-8887. Tu-Su: 9:00-21:00. Mon: 15:00-21:00
Last year I wrote two articles about early-morning drinking establishments in Osaka, some that open as early as 7 A.M. Standing Bar Kuroneko (Black Cat), located across the street from Nagai Park, could have easily made the list since it opens at 9 A.M. This is the place to be if you want to meet some of the friendliest locals in all of Osaka. I’ve been here twice and received a warm welcome both times.
The owner of Kuroneko is a woman who loves cats, and as a cat owner I can totally relate. The entire bar is a shrine to furry felines with paintings, posters and banners featuring all sorts of cats including one wearing sunglasses at night. The shelves behind the bar are full of maneki neko (beckoning cats) and other cat figurines, many brought by loyal customers over the years from travels in Japan and abroad.
Many people still have the image of a standing bar as a place in which mostly older men gather, but Kuroneko attracts a diverse clientele of men and women of all ages and backgrounds, many of whom seem to know each other. The air buzzes with laughter and the fast-paced rhythm of Osaka dialect. Still, not everyone joins the festive-like atmosphere—some customers come for a quiet drink, content to stand in silence. It’s a special kind of solitude, and one I’ve come to admire over the years.
Low Prices, High Quality
I’m somewhat hesitant to list prices at these cheaper establishments because rampant inflation means that costs can go up at a moment’s notice. When we visited Kuroneko the cost of most drinks such as draft beer, sake and wine was only 400 yen. The Kirin beer I ordered was served ice cold and had just the right amount of foam. After chatting briefly, a friendly customer treated Kaai to a glass of white wine, which normally goes for 500 yen. If alcohol is not your thing then you can order a soft drink for 300 yen. (Prices still valid as of this writing).
As with Standing Bar Tora, Kuroneko operates on a cash-on-delivery system. I am starting to enjoy putting my money into a little box.
A sign behind the counters asks that customers who are drinking order at least one item of food, which won’t be a problem for most since the majority of the menu is light snacks such as cheese and fish sausages in the range of 100-300 yen. Kaai orders their most popular dish, a heart-shaped cocotte that was filled with eggs and cheese. It took about 10 minutes to prepare and Kaai said it was delicious.
I wasn’t very hungry so I ordered the cheapest items on the menu for 100 yen: Korean Dried Seaweed and Snow Brand 6P Cheese, which has been a popular snack since 1954. For many years I wondered why I only got one piece of cheese when the menu clearly stated “6P“. Newsflash: That’s how many pieces come in the round box, dummy! Did I really think I would get the full set for only 100 yen?
Home Away From Home
I had wanted to visit Kuroneko for a long time because one of my friends, named Aaron B., is a regular, and I’ve always enjoyed his posts on social media about his visits here over the years. When we visited, Aaron had moved back to the U.S. temporarily for a couple of years, but as soon as I mentioned his name, almost every one of the regulars at the bar pulled out their phones and showed me his photo. I could tell that he was valued both as a customer and as a friend.
Living in a foreign country can get lonely at times, and I can’t stress enough the importance of having your own “local” in Japan—a place where you can feel at home the moment you set foot inside. I made sure to let Aaron know that his friends at Kuroneko miss him and are eagerly awaiting his return. Aaron is now back in Osaka, and it would be nice to visit Kuroneko with him in the near future.
Nagai Shotengai 長居商店街
Address: 3-6-10 Nagai, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0003.
We head towards Nagai Shotengai, which was formerly established in 1955. The shopping arcade has an official association with Celeste Osaka, a professional soccer team that plays nearby in Nagai Stadium. It currently consists of 26 shops and businesses, many with faded old signs from another era. I quickly snap a couple of photos of a fried tofu shop and another one nearby that sells bags of rice from an agricultural association. I don’t believe the prices in the photo are accurate anymore since rice is now more expensive than its ever been.
Kaai and I have one more stop on our list, but we are in desperate need of a strong caffiene boost to offset the affects of alcohol after spending all day drinking. As it so happens, there is a stand selling coffee next to our final destination. We take it as a good sign and go in.
G’Day Coffee and Wine グダイコーヒー アンド ワイン
Addresss: 3-2-18 Nagai, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0003. Tel: 06-6698-5515. Open: 9:30-21:00. Closed: Tue. Instagram
The small stand is owned by a young man named Aki, a professional wine sommelier who lived in Australia for two years and speaks fluent English. The chocolate lattes look really enticing but we play it safe by ordering two black coffees made fresh beans. The hot java really hits the spot, but we are far from being fully recharged.
Mocktails and Cheese Hot Dogs
G’Day Coffee and Wine also has a selection of alcohol such as beer and shochu, but we stick with our coffee. I spot mocktails on the menu, including one that contains lemon and lime bitters. I’ve heard that mocktails are catching on with young people in Japan, but I’ve never seen them offered in any of the places that I frequent, which is hardly surprising.
For some reason drinking black coffee always makes me hungry no matter how much I’ve eaten so I glance at the food menu, which consists mainly of hot dogs and pizza. I must say that the cheese covered hot dogs look really good, so I order one for 500 yen. It was actually quite tasty, and reminded me of the bratwursts I enjoyed in Wisconsin when I lived there in the early 90s before coming to Japan.
We probably should have called it a day after such a refreshing coffee break, but we were determined to soldier on to the place next door.
立ち飲み屋由紀 Standing Bar Yuki
Address: 3-2 Nagai, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka 558-0003. Open: 15:00-22:00.
We’re now at Standing bar Yuki, the 8th and final place of our barhop of Abiko and Nagai. There are posters on the exterior for a rakugo performer, a politician, a rock band called Ms Protein and the movie Niwatori Phoenix, the sequel to Niwatori Star, one of my favorite Japanese road movies that was partially filmed in Osaka. The shutter is visible above the door and I’m not sure if they have just opened or about to close.
Once inside, it becomes clear that we are in a real beat up dive bar and the slightly messy atmosphere adds to the charm. On the counter there’s an impressive earthenware ceramic jar called kame (甕) containing Awamori Shochu from the Zuisen Distillery in Naha, Okinawa which was founded in 1887. The brown vessel next to it contains Standing Bar Yuki’s original house blend of shochu. For our final kampai I go with the usual beer and Kaai opts for a tall glass of red whine. On my insistence, She also orders a glass of cold green tea as a chaser to stay hydrated. The beer and the tea are served in mugs for Nikka Black Clear Whiskey, which is typical in these kind of places in Osaka.
Pork Steak and Cabbage Omelet.
We ordered the tonteki pork steak for 350 yen. Kaai wrote (translation): “The dish is served with an appetizing aroma wafting through the air as it is being cooked. The pork was cut into bite-sized pieces, and the garlic sauce was delicious! The fatigue from hasty barhopping was also gone!” Then we got the Cabbage omelet for 250 yen. I don’t know how Kaai was able to take notes because she was three sheets to the wind, but she managed to write: “Roughly cut cabbage and egg baked flat. The burnt, handmade look is also a nice touch. It is topped with Nishinari’s favorite brand sauce, Hishiume Tamari Sauce. I can’t get enough of the home-style feel of this handsome dish.”
The details are hazy at best, but I remember having a good time talking to the owner and some of the regular customers, one whom lived in my city. I glanced at Kaai’s blog to see if she recalled anything: “It was pretty relaxed when I first walked in, but as time passed, the regulars started showing up one after another, and the atmosphere quickly became bustling. I had some great conversations with the people next to me and the staff — it was a truly fun and enjoyable time ♪” Whether you want to quietly sip your drink while watching TV, or join in the lively chatter with everyone, both are totally welcome. It’s a wonderfully cozy standing bar with that classic neighborhood vibe.
Kaai lives in Tokyo now, but I am so grateful she accompanied me on this wonderful hop. I could not have written this article without her.
Part II: Abiko Station After Dark
Even though I had a great time day drinking in Abiko, I actually prefer this area at night (The reverse can be said for Nagai). The Chikatetsu Abiko Center Shopping Street (地下鉄あびこ中央商店街) is like a smaller version of the Soemoncho in Namba near Dotombori. Like many places in Osaka, the area is not much to look at during the day, but really comes alive at night under the glow of neon lights.
This time I’m joined by my wife M. All of the places on our night tour are directly inside the shopping arcade or nearby. This time I only have one place on the “list” but I don’t think we will get in. We’re just going explore the area without a plan and see what grabs our attention.
Jumbo Honten じゃんぼ總本店 あびこ駅前店
Address: 5-19-9 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0011. Tel: 06-6607-7887 Open: 10:00-23:00. Website.
Jumbo is a chain often found near train stations in Osaka that sell konamon (flour based) ‘soul food’ dishes such as okonomiyaki, takoyaki, tonpeiyaki and yakisoba. Most of the customers order take-out, but some shops have tables and chairs inside to eat-in. The taste is comparable to what you would get at a street stall during a local festival, but the prices are cheap and you can opt for large portions.
We didn’t come all the way to Abiko to eat at Jumbo, there is one in our neighborhood. The last few times I’ve been in this neighborhood it struck me how iconic the main store (honten) of this chain looks under the moonlight. If tourists can go all the way to some small town just to photograph a Lawson’s in front of Mount Fuji, then there’s no reason they couldn’t come here to take a selfie in this Osaka landmark.
Tokiwa Yokocho ときわ横丁
Address: Tokiwa Building, 7-12-28 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0011.
Tokiwa Yokocho, an alley of bars and restaurants that runs through a building and resembles a tunnel, which is perfect for barhopping at night. Sumibitori Aki is a famous yakitori restaurant inside known mostly by locals that cooks skewers of chicken on charcoal. It has been on my list for roughly a decade, but I wasn’t to get in on the two other times I visited, which was very disappointing.
Not getting in to Sumibitori Aki has nothing to do with exclusivity, it’s actually a very welcoming and down-to-earth place. The tiny restaurant is so popular that the only way to get in is to show up at around 11:00 A.M. and sign up for the dinner slots which start at 5 P.M. Occaisionally there is a chance that a slot will open upon arrival, but once again, it was not meant to be for us this time. I was really hoping to include it in this article, but we decided to look for another place inside and discovered a wonderful yakiniku restaurant which we loved.
Niku no Okayama 肉卸直営焼肉 肉のオカヤマ
Address:1F Tokiwa Building, 7-12-28 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0011. Tel: 06-6654-7229. Open: See English Website
Niku no Okayama, whichis also located at the other end of Tokiwa Yokocho, bills itself as a taishu sakaba (public saloon-大衆酒場) that has an inexpensive all-you-can eat yakiniku (Korean barbecue) dinner option. It is actually more famous for it’s yakiku lunch, which contains generous portions of meat for just 1,000 yen. The reason the restaurant can offer low prices is because it is owned by a direct wholesale meat distributor that has a shop about five minutes away.
Niku no Okayama offers higer end cuts of meat such as wagyu, but we chose the horumon and chicken all-you-can-eat (tabehoudai) option for ¥1,980*) that comes with a choice of 37 menu options (not including drinks). While this might seem overwhelming, the restaurant is foreigner friendly, and you can order in English easily on a tablet. In addition to delicious plates of chicken and horumon, which we grilled at our table we enjoyed having our server bring us items prepared in the kitchen including chicken wings, bimbibap, kimchi, namul, karaage friend chicken, a croquette ball. (*The price has been raised to ¥2,178 with 42 options).
We were both astounded by the quality of our food for such a low price. If this place was in a central location there would be lines around the block. Next time I go I’m going to refrain from eating anything for the entire day so I can try a few more items that I missed.
Kaiten Sushi Tora 回転ずしとら
Address:13-23, Kanda 5-chome, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0011. Tel: 06-4700-0018. Open: 11:30-20:30.
We are stuffed from the yakiniku feast, but the night is still young. I spot a kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt sushi) restaurant called Tora, which has a yellow and black sign, which has to be in honor of the Hanshin Tigers. The sign advertises that all sushi is 105 yen (tax included), but I know that there is no way that this low price is still valid. This is a local shop, not a huge national chain. What are they supposed to do, get a brand new sign every time prices go up? We decided to go in and take a chance. After all, we are in Japan, how bad could it be?
As I expected the price range at Tora is 120-200 yen for two pieces, which is still very reasonable. The entire conveyor belt goes around one U-shaped counter, so your order won’t have to travel very far. When we arrived there were some dishes going round the table but it seemed like most customers were placing orders with the staff, as the small shop did not have the usual touch screens that almost all chains use.
We ordered basic items from the 120 yen menu:negi-toro (fatty tuna with green onions), maguro (tuna), hamachi (yellowtail) and ebi (shrimp) and shrimp avocado (not pictured) Tora won’t win any awards for presentation, but the sushi was quite tasty considering the low prices. I used to love going to chains (which I won’t name here) but in recent years, prices keep going up and quality is way down. These days, I prefer to try local shops like this one that have been in the neighborhood for years and have a bit of character.
Patisserie Florence
Address: Yamamoto Mansion, 7-9-19 Kanda, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0011. Tel: 06-6696-3580. Open: 9:00-20:00. Website
It was time to call it a night. My wife wanted to pick up some dessert to bring back to our daughter from Patisserie Florence which has been in the neighborhood since 1977 and has a great reputation in Osaka. Unfortunately, we got there a little after closing time and the shutter was already halfway down. Undeterred, my wife poked her head in and asked the staff if it wasn’t too late to buy something. To our surprise, we were invited to come in a look around.
The shop’s motto is “With the hope of bringing a smile to our customers’ faces, we strive to create sweets that are loved by everyone.” We haven’t tried the sweets yet, but believe me, we were smiling having the entire shop to ourselves like two characters in some cheesy internatonal romantic comedy from the 80s with soundtrack of sappy love songs from Phil Collins, Kenny Loggins and Air Supply.
The menu items in the shop are ranked based on their popularity with the Kannon Specialty Crust, a local favorite in Abiko coming in at number one. The least popular item at number 10 is fruit cake, which is not surprising at all. Does anyone truly like fruit cake or is it just a gift that nobody ever eats? We decide to go with the cheese cake, which is ranked low at number 8, just two places above the fruit cake.
I tell you, without exaggeration that this cheesecake could give the world famous Lindy’s in Times Square a run for the money.
