Table of Contents
Introduction
Welcome to another installment of our exploration of the Hankai Tramway! In the last article we traveled along the Hankai Line from the Sumiyoshi Taisha station to Abikomichi, the final stop in Sumiyoshi Ward crossing into Sakai. This time we’re diving into the Uemachi Line, which consists of 10 stations—and we’ve brought along a few friends to make it even more fun! Once again, we’ve purchased a Take Take 1-Day Pass, which lets us ride the entire Hankai Tramway for just 700 yen. Come discover the best of Hidden Osaka.
Sumiyoshi Station 住吉留場
Sumiyoshi Station is the perfect place to start since it connects the Uemachi Line with the Hankai Line. Whether you’re starting out from from Ebisucho Station in Naniwa Ward, Tennoji-ekimae near the famous Abeno Harukas building, or Hamadera-eki in Sakai, all trams pass through Sumiyoshi Station. It’s also very close to the aforementioned Sumiyoshi Taisha, perhaps the most beautiful shrine in Osaka.
Our goal on this journey is to uncover great restaurants and unique spots that don’t appear in guidebooks and are well off the beaten tourist paths. It’s worth noting that we didn’t find these all in a single day—it took several trips along the Uemachi Line to discover each place. That said, by following this guide, you could visit many of them in a single day. I recommend creating a personalized itinerary by including some of the wonderful stops we found along the Hankai Line last time while daytripping in Osaka.
Coffee Shop Nest ネースト
Address: 9-109 2 Chome, Sumiyoshi-ku, Osaka, 558-0045. Tel: 06-6672-2900. Open: 8:00-21:00. Closed: Wed.
After arriving at Sumiyoshi Station, our first priority is to find a proper morning set for breakfast. Luckily, we don’t have to look far—Coffee Shop Nest is just a stone’s throw from the tracks. In the past, I might have wandered around before deciding on a spot, but Nest checks all the boxes with its brick facade and weathered sign out front that reads: “Enjoy a moment of relaxation with the richness and aroma of coffee.”
Upon entering, the first thing that caught my eye was a stained glass light fixture hanging directly above an impressive rubber tree plant. Beside it, a wooden basket held the latest newspapers, gossip magazines, and thick, weekly-published manga. With the younger generation now mostly reading manga online, it’s refreshing to see printed versions in classic shops like this one.
The Morning Set
Nest has an English menu, but it’s not as extensive as the Japanese one. A lot of old shops will keep the English menu very simple to avoid confusion when dealing with customers who don’t speak Japanese. The “Morning Set” is translated as “Time Service,” and the menu states: Order any one drink get one free (toast, mini sandwich or mini ham toast) from 8:00-11:30. The prices are a couple of hundred yen higher than most local coffee shops, but this is not surprising since Nest is located next to Sumiyoshi Taisha, one of the most popular tourist attractions in Osaka.
Our order is taken by the owner, a well-dressed man who later informs us that he is in his eighties. We order the club sandwich, which contains eggs, ham, sliced cucumber and tomatoes. I select the blend coffee for 500 yen and my wife goes with mixed juice, fruit mixed with milk in a blender. Mixed juice is said to have originated at a shop called Sennariya in the Shinsekai.
It’s a pleasure to watch the owner as he pours hot water from a polished silver kettle into the filter of a glass coffee pot. We can smell the rich aroma from our table. The coffee and sandwich are delicious and a great way to start the day. Upon paying the bill, the owner tells us that Nest is 60 years old. My wife tells him he is handsome and he blushes. “You complimented me and now I have to calculate the bill all over again,” he says with a laugh.
Daikai Shrine 大海神社
Address: 2 Chome-9 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 558-0045.
After we left Nest, we noticed that the street behind it leads to a shrine called Daikai Jinja, which is actually older than Sumiyoshi Taisha. The Main Hall was built in 1708 during the mid-Edo Period (The Main Hall of Sumiyoshi Taisha was built in 1810). It originally enshrined Watatsumi, a powerful god of the sea. The two deities currently worshipped at Daikai Jinja are Toyotamahiko no Mikoto and Toyotamahime no Mikoto, who both provide spiritual protection for mariners on voyages.
Daikai Jinja is designed in the same style as the main shrines of Sumiyoshi Taisha. It features a straightforward gable roof, elegantly topped at each end with a pair of crossed timbers. The columns are painted a vibrant vermillion, contrasting beautifully with the white exterior walls. The entrance faces west, looking out towards the sea, and the structure is divided into two distinct spaces: an outer room and an inner sanctuary.
Upon climbing the steps to the Main Hall, we are surprised to discover that we have the entire shrine to ourselves. There has been a lot of articles decrying “overtourism” in Japan but if you choose to visit lesser known areas like this one you can have a much more relaxing, shall I say, spiritual experience by walking the grounds at your own pace. This experience was instrumental in opening my eyes to the history of some of the more obscure temples and shrines in Osaka, often hidden away in residential neighborhoods, each one with their own unique history.
Kaminoki Station 神の木留場
Kami no Ki means “Tree of The Gods.” The name comes from the fact that when the Sumiyoshi area faced the coast, there was a large old pine tree nearby that was worshipped as a sacred tree. The platform is located on and embankment that overpasses the Nankai Koya Line. The closest Nankai stop is Sumiyoshi Higashi Station, which is located on the south side.
Tofukuji Temple 東福寺
Address: 1-chōme-7 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 558-0045.
This small station, located about 5 minutes on foot from Kaminoki Station was a real discovery. I’m just going to make a bold statement and say that I think that this may be my favorite hidden temple in Osaka.
Tokufuji Temple is branch temple of Chogosonshi-ji Temple on Mount Shigisan in Nara. It was said to be founded by Kobo Daishi (774-835), also known as Kukai, a Buddhist monk, calligrapher and poet who founded the esoteric Shingon school of Buddhism.
When it was first built, it was locateds about 100m west of its current location, facing the Kumano Highway, but it was moved to the current location during the Bunka Era (1804-1818). At the time the temple grounds had a study and a storehouse, but today it contains the residence of the main priest and a cemetery.
A stone Torii gate stands by the entrance to the temple. Torii gates are usually not found at temples, but they are a common site at the head temple on Mount Shigisan. Once again, it is a bit surreal to walk through a residential neighborhood and come across such an important cultural property.
A short stone walkway leads to the main temple gate, which is called yamamon (山門) in Japanese. One of the things I’ve always admired about Buddhist temples is that you can appreciate the beauty and serenity without having an understanding of the religion or technical terms. That being said, I have decided to make more of an effort to understand the significance of what I am seeing.
I come to a chōzubachi(手水鉢) a roofed basin filled with clean water that is used for purification rituals. chōzubachi are used by worshippers to wash their left hand, right hand, mouth and finally the handle of the water ladle to purify themselves before approaching the main temple.
Eye of The Tiger
The next thing that catches my eye is a cast iron statue of a tiger with his mouth wide open as if it is howling at me. Generally, tigers in Buddhist art represent strength, protection, and the ability to overcome obstacles. The presence of a tiger statue may symbolize the temple’s role in guiding practitioners and visitors along their spiritual journey, encouraging them to face challenges with determination.
The main hall, called hondou (本堂) features another statue of a tiger, this one a bit more ferocious-looking, that appears to be guarding a bright red box that dispenses o-mikuji fortunes. Make sure you bring pocket change because these old temples don’t run on a cashless system. Inserting coins into an antique vending machine is so much better that pulling out a smartphone and using an app.
Twin Centipedes
In front of the main hall, there is a majestic incense burner (kouro 香炉) that features two giant centipedes. This is a cultural artifact that you would expect to find behind protective glass at a museum, not out in the open and exposed to the elements at a local temple. In Japanese folklore centipedes, called mukade, can symbolize protection and serve as guardians against evil spirits.
Statues in Harmony with Nature
One other thing I really like about Tokufuji is that nature is allowed to flourish here. There is no attempt to pull weeds or trim bushes to make the temple more presentable to visitors. Statues are obstructed by overgrown shrubs and plants, but this only adds to the sense of tranquility and harmony with nature. These might be cliches when talking about Japan, but in this case it definitely applies.
The statues I almost missed turned out to be two of the main attractions of Tokufuji: En no Gyōja he founder of Shugendo, an ascetic form of mountain worship that combines ancient Japanese nature worship, Buddhist beliefs, and Taoism. Next to it is a statue of Mizuko Kannon, the goddess who watches over the souls of deceased babies, infants, or fetuses.
I’ve only listed about half of the Buddhist cultural properties that you can see at Tokufuji temple. I have been here three times and each time I find something new. It’s definitely worth it to take the tram here after visiting Sumiyoshi Taisha.
Okonomiyaki Goshiki お好み焼きごしき
Address: 1 Chome-2-10 Sumiyoshi, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 558-0045. Tel: 06-6672-1016. Open: 11:00-15:00, 17:00-21:00. Closed: Mon, Tue, Fri.
It’s time to eat. Let’s forget that the Internet exists for a moment and find a place the old fashioned way by wandering around. One of my favorite shows on TV Solitary Gourmet, which is based on a manga by Masayuki Qusumi. It features a salesman named Gorō Inogashira who visits various restaurants on his travels. I find that the show is accurate in capturing the feeling of discovering a new place in an unfamiliar town.
On the way to the station I notice a shop called Okonomiyaki Goshiki. No need to check the reviews, I know this place is going to be good. You cannot go wrong with okonomiyaki in Osaka and the best restaurant is often the closest one to your house. I tend to prefer Mom and Pop shops to the major chains, but those are also just as good. Believe me, bad okonomiyaki could not survive in Osaka.
Okonomiyaki Goshiki has a counter that sits about six people. There is a longer table on the left side that is suitable for groups. In this case a group of seniors who seemed to be old friends. They discussed everything from the state of the world to baseball sensation Shohei Ohtani in a boisterous voice while downing large bottles of Asahi Super Dry. I knew right away that this is my kind of place.
International Relations
I ordered the mixed okonomiyaki, which features a blend of beef, pork, and seafood. The owner, wearing a blue Niagara Falls t-shirt, shared that he’s been seeing a lot of foreign customers lately, but they often struggle with the menu, even with translation software. His last customer was Finnish and was thrilled to try Osaka soul food for the first time.
Wanting to help, I asked the owner for a pen and paper and spent the next ten minutes translating the menu as best as I could. With so many topping options, it took a little time. When I handed the paper back to him, I asked if I should also translate the horumon (offal) dishes that tourists tend to shy away from. He mentioned that his Chinese customers often inquire about horumon. I don’t usually translate menus on the spot, but his genuine desire to make things easier for foreign customers really inspired me.
Okonomiyaki with mustard
The owner prepared my okonomiyaki right in front of me on the teppanyaki grill, asking if I wanted mayonnaise and mustard. Mustard? That was a first for me, but I was up for trying something new. It turned out to be delicious, and in that moment, I decided that Goshiki would be my go-to okonomiyaki spot. I really liked the vibe of the place. The owner mentioned that he and his wife opened it 35 years ago.
The Bottle Cap System
The next time I visited Goshiki I brought along my good friend Tatsuya and Osaka dot com photographer Ross Randles. This time it was our turn to sit at the big table. I ordered the yakisoba which was very also excellent. After every beer, we put the bottle caps in a small wooden box, which was then tallied up by the owner. This system beats having to order with your smartphone, which I despise. Analog rules!
Tezukayama 4 Chome 帝塚山四丁目留場
Tezukayama is considered one of the swankiest parts of Kansai, but according to several locals I chatted with, the concentration of wealth i is in Abeno Ward. This stop is still technically part of our beloved Sumiyoshi Ward and decidedly working class with older shops like the one in the photo below.
Although this is a guide to every stop on the Uemachi Line, I honestly couldn’t find a single place of interest even though I visited the area three times. A local post office and a supermarket are listed as places of interest on Wikipedia (Japanese). Lord knows I tried. Who knows, maybe this area will turn out to be the hippest area of Osaka one day. But definitely not in 2024. On to the next station.
Tezukuyama 3 Chome 帝塚山三丁目留場
Tezukayama 3 Chome is just a short distance away, but there are more shops and historical places of interest, the most famous being the Tezukayama Burial Mound that was constructed between the end of the fourth century and fifth century. It was a 10 minute walk from the station and the grounds were not accessible to the public when we visited. Tezukayama Coffee-Kan 8 is a popular neighborhood cafe.
Bandaiike /Mandaiike Park 万代池公園
Address: 3 Chome-7 Bandai, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 558-0055. Open 24 hours.
Bandaiike Park is a serene 4.3-hectare oasis, located just 50 meters southeast of Tezukayama Station. Its picturesque pond, thought to have formed by damming a valley in the Uemachi Plateau. This hidden gem offers a peaceful escape from the city’s concrete jungle. Visitors can stroll across the stone bridge or jog around the park’s perimeter, making it an ideal spot for outdoor activities. It’s particularly popular for photography during cherry blossom season, and the migratory birds that frequent the area create a calming connection with nature.
Bandai Pond Monster
According to the Sumiyoshi Village Chronicle published in 1927, Bandai Pond was once home to a mysterious monster that plagued the local people. To resolve this, Prince Shotoku sent a representative from Shitennoji Temple to recite the Mandala Sutra, causing the monster to vanish. Originally named Mandala Pond (Mandaiike) in reference to the sutra, the name gradually evolved into Bandai Pond (Bandaiike) over time, although its important to point at that people in Osaka still use both names, which can be confusing at times.
The Osaka Tourism Bureau should consider reviving the tales of the Bandai Monster. It could boost tourism and spark a cottage industry of related merchandise. Just look at the success of the Loch Ness Monster in Scotland! Tourists love a good urban legend. Imagine the t-shirt sales alone. It could then be spun off into a major motion picture to rival Godzilla. I can’t be the only one who has thought of this.
Himematsu Station 姫松留場
This part of Tezukayama in Abeno Ward is known as one of the most upscale and luxurious residential neighborhoods in the Kansai region. Since the Meiji period, wealthy families have built their mansions and second homes here. Today, strict building regulations help maintain and enhance the area’s elegant residential landscape. I have never been to this area before and I don’t know what to expect.
Tezukayama Poire ポアール 帝塚山本店
Address: 1 Chome-6-16 Tezukayama, Abeno Ward, Osaka, 545-0037. Tel:06-6623-1101. Open: 9:00-20:30. Website Instagram
I hadn’t planned on visiting this famous cake shop, which was founded in 1969, but as soon as my wife spotted it, she insisted we try something more upscale instead of my usual dive bars and greasy spoons. “Think about your readers,” she said. “Wouldn’t they enjoy a nice dessert while on vacation in Osaka?” She made a good point, and since she controls the purse strings, why not indulge?
Poire specialized in high end drip coffee starting at 920 yen. They have a blend from Kenya that will set you back a whopping 1,500 yen. I’ve never paid that much for a cup of coffee in my entire life, so I ordered a lemon squash instead for half the price. I have a soft spot for lemon squash since it was the first drink I ordered after landing in Japan for the very first time at Narita Airport.
High End Mixed Juice
My wife ordered a mixed juice for 1,200 yen, which included ice cream, blueberries, strawberries, a slice of lemon, and what appeared to be an ultra-thin wafer. When the waiter delivered it, a captivating smoke and fog effect—similar to dry ice—enveloped the drink. I know mixed juice is said to have originated in Osaka, but I’ve never had it served like this!
Sensational Desserts
The desserts were sensational. We ordered one of their most popular items, the Princesse cake (not a typo, it’s French), whose elaborate dress is made with a delightful combination of strawberries and berries. A very popular item on Instagram to say the least. The a la mode was also incredible. A dish of ice cream topped with fruit, pudding and a tiny slice of strawberry short cake. Outstanding!
When we got the bill we realized that we could have feasted on two steak dinners with drinks for what we paid for these high-end desserts, but sometimes you just have to splurge. This place is perfect for a special occasion and you can buy cakes to go at their shop downstairs.
Cafe Cubic Point
Address: 1 Chome-5-24 Tezukayamahigashi, Sumiyoshi Ward, Osaka, 558-0054. Tel: N/A. Open: 9:00-18:00. Closed: Mon, Fri.
Our next stop was Cafe Cubic Point, a 40 year old coffee shop located in a converted warehouse with high ceilings that plays jazz on a vintage stereo system. I was dying for a cup of coffee and noticed caramel latte on the menu. That’s not something you see at an old coffee shop in Japan, so I decided to take a chance and order it. My wife decides to keep it simple and orders black coffee.
Cafe Cubic Point offers light fare such as curry and rice, mix (aka club) sandwiches, shrimp pilaf, and Japanese style past with kinoko mushrooms. Not feeling very hungry I order butter toast. I have a pleasant chat with the owner and a regular customer who lives nearby.
Coffee and Jazz
The caramel latte was good, but this is a place you visit to soak up the atmosphere for a half an hour or so before resuming your journey. Nothing like a good cup of coffee and smooth jazz to recharge the batteries, especially if you are planning on drinking later in the day.
I have to admit that there was one thing I didn’t like about this place: there is a Boston Redsox clock on the wall (next to an impressive vintage clock). As a New York Yankees fan I found it distasteful, but don’t let that dissuade you from coming to this cozy little cafe. By the way, does anybody recognize the man in the upper right photo? My guess is Freddie Mercury or Tom Cruise.
Kitabake Station 北畠停留場
The Kitabake area is named after Akiie Kitabake, a court noble who was born in 1318. The area around the station is said to have been his burial site. The station is nothing more than a glorified bus stop, but fans of contemporary Japanese architecture might appreciate the K-1 Project, an award-winning office and detached house located in front of the station that was constructed in 2004.
Genshoji Temple 源正寺
Address:18-34 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno Ward, Osaka, 545-0034. Tel:06-6621-5224.
We have been walking down the road in extreme heat for several minutes without coming across anything of interest. I don’t think Kitabake Station will be named a trendy area of Osaka anytime soon, but it is too soon to give up hope. We come across Genshoji Temple, which was built in 1687. It was moved to the current location in 1925 in order to construct Uehonmachi Station. The tower gate seen in the photo is registered as a tangible cultural property of Japan (登録有形文化財).
Abeno Sutra Mound 阿倍野経塚
Address:15 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno Ward, Osaka, 545-0034.
Further down the road we come to metal sign commemorating the site of the Abeno Sutra Mound. Sutra mounds were created from the Heian (794–1192) to the Edo (1603–1868) period for the purpose of preserving Buddhist sutra scrolls. Abeno Sutra Mound was originally located on Abeno-suji, but was moved to its current location in 1995 due to road expansion. I’m not sure how you can move the ruins of a burial mound to a completely different location, but I’m sure it was done with the utmost care and respect. History is often fluid, it seems.
Higashi Tengachya Station 東天下茶屋停留場
I could write an entire article on this area around this Higashi Tengachaya (East Tengachaya) station in Abeno to compliment the one I wrote on Nishi Tengachaya (West Tengachaya) in Nishinari a couple of years ago because it is also a fascinating old area. The two stations are actually about 30 minutes away by train/tram on two different lines. Kita Tengachaya (North Tengachaya) is a stop on the Hankai Line about 15 away. Tengachaya means “Teahouse under heaven” There is no station in Osaka called Minami Tengachaya (South Tengachaya).
The Market: Ikedaya BBQ Style
Address: 6-23 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno Ward, Osaka, 545-0034. Open: Mon-Thu 7:30-17:00. Fri-Sun: 7:30-22:00. Website Instagram
The Market is a food court located near Higashi Tengachaya Station that contains a restaurant and a bakery. The concept of The Market is to “Buy Local” in order to support the neighborhood. They also operate a grocery store that sources produce from local farmers and operate an Air BnB nearby called Stay Local that offers visitors a chance to live in a residential neighborhood in Abeno with a curated itinerary.
Barbecue Heaven
My wife and I decided to have lunch at Ikedaya BBQ Style, a restaurant known for its grilled meats and organic vegetables cooked over a charcoal fire. The owners of The Market host “Buy Local” events throughout Japan several times a month. During one of these events in Ikeda, Osaka, they met the owner of two local barbecue restaurants. After tasting his food, they encouraged him to open a restaurant in their neighborhood.
I decided to go with the “Wagyu Rump Steak” that came with a homemade sausage, pickles, organic greens, sourdough bread and a wonderful gazpacho soup. My wife got the “Pork Ginger” set that also included sausage, grilled vegetables and soup. The menu says this item is very popular with children. It’s nice to know that the younger generation is expanding their palate and eating organically.
The Market Bakery: Best Sourdough Bread in Osaka
My wife and I flipped out over the sourdough bread we had with our delicious meal. Sourdough bread is not easy to find in Japan, so we were delighted to learn that the bakery sells loaves to go. We got lucky because they were having a half price sale (usuallly ¥780), so we picked up two loaves, the plain and the rye.
For the next week we enjoyed amazing toast for breakfast. I actually went to bed dreaming of eating sourdough bread the next morning. I think we may have gotten addicted, because we headed back to The Market a week later to buy two more loaves. This time we used the bread to make sandwiches, which came out great, but I still want to try the sandwiches at The Market, especially the salmon and cream cheese. Caffeine junkies take note: The Market offers coffee from Globe Mountain Coffee, a fair trade shop in Kyoto.
Patisserie il de PETITE FEVE
Address: 8 Chome-1-25 Uehonmachi, Tennoji Ward, Osaka, 543-0001. Open: Mon-Sat 11:00-20:00. Sun 11:00-19:00. Closed: Tue. Instagram.
After visiting visiting The Market for a second time to buy sourdough bread, my wife wanted to try the dessert at Patisserie il de PETITE FEVE just across the tracks. Although I’ve never been to France, I imagine that a great deal of care went into creating this shop, capturing the essence of a Parisian cake shop and café—or at least the Japanese interpretation of a French patisserie, which is equally intriguing. まるごと桃のパニエ
We ordered drinks. I got an iced coffee and my wife settled on hot tea with milk, but when it came to ordering a dessert she was completely torn. She was dying to try the “whole peach pannier (まるごと桃のパニエ)” because it looked so appealing. Pannier is a type of pastry resembling a basket, which is often filled with sweet fillings like cream, chocolate or fruit—in this case an entire peach with whip cream on top.
However, during the month we visited, the shop just happened to be participating in a nationwide campaign to promote a dessert called savarin. This treat is made by cutting brioche, soaking it in a tea-flavored syrup, chilling it, and then adding orange syrup and/or rum, topped with whipped cream or fruit. I told her why compromise? Simply order both desserts and we’ll split them. It was a wise choice because we enjoyed both selections. Our desserts were exquisitely presented with a miniature version of the Eiffel Tower, a nice touch.
Abe Oji Shrine 阿倍王子神社
Address: 9-4 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno Ward, Osaka, 545-0034. Open: 9:00-17:00. Website
Abe Oji Shrine is located about five minutes from Higashi Tengachaya Station. In order to fully appreciate this shrine, I had to read up one of Japan’s most important spiritual paths: The Kumano Kodo, a series of ancient pilgrimage routes that crisscross the Kii Peninsula, which spans the Wakayama, Nara, Osaka, and Mie prefectures, it has been traversed by seekers of enlightenment for over a thousand years.
Oji are subsidiary shrines of the Three Grand Shrines of Kumano that were built along the pilgrimage route from Kyoto to serve as places for rest and prayer. There used to be 99 Oji shrines, but Abe no Oji is the only one left in Osaka. The original shrine was built in Azuchimachi 1688 and moved to the current location in 1907. The most impressive structure is the Worship Hall which was rebuilt in 1967.
Food Orchestra フードオーケストラ
Address: 8-5 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno-ku, Osaka 545-0034. Tel: 06-6654-5695. Open: 11:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Instagram
Food Orchestra is the brick-and-mortar store of a popular online shop that specializes in organic food from all over Japan. It is located in a gorgeous retro-style building near Abeno Oji Shrine. John Podeszwa, who takes photos for our Instagram account is a big fan of this building. It’s the type of intriguing old building that people just have to stop and photograph, and maybe take a peek inside.
When I first passed by, I assumed it was a coffee shop. I told the clerk that I wanted to purchase the 500 gram bag of coffee beans were on sale in front of the shop. She gave me a baffled look, so I showed her the bag outside. A less composed person would have burst out laughing, but she showed remarkable restraint, and then politely explained that this is a bag of organic soil. Oh man, what a rookie mistake!
In order to save face, I looked to see what items I could purchase to make up for my embarrassing mistake. They had a bottle of one of my favorite beers Minoh Weizen with a custom Food Orchestra label. So I purchased a bottle and an organic cookie and enjoyed them both on the bench outside the shop.
Oji Hondori Shopping Arcade 王子本通商店街 / Abeoji Shopping Arcade 阿倍王子商店街
Address: 17 2-Chome, Oji-cho, Abeno-ku, Osaka 545-0023.
Oji Hondori Shopping Arcade is located across the street from Abe Oji Shrine. Although many of the shops seem to be shuttered, the arcade is well-worth exploring. I got some interesting photos of faded signs from a by-gone era. As I wandered through the maze of shops, I took a wrong turn and found myself in Abeoji Shopping Arcade. This place felt even older, filled with ultra-cheap vending machines, mysterious side streets, and shops that seemed frozen in time. One shop even had a poster of an idol from the ’80s, possibly Hiroko Yakushimaru.
Abeoji shopping arcade was much bigger than I expected. I wanted to keep on exploring, but I was worried about ending up at a completely different station, so I retraced by steps and returned to where I started from. It’s easy to get lost in an old shopping arcade like this one.
Abe Seimei Shrine 安倍晴明神社
Address: 5-16 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno-ku, Osaka, 545-0034. Tel: 06-6622-2565. Open: 11:00-16:00.
Abe Seimei Shrine is an enclave of Abe Oji Shrine, located about 50 meters to the north. The enshrined deity is Abe no Seimei (921-1005), a renowned Onmyōji , or yin-yang master, who served as a spiritual advisor to the Emperor and government during the Heian Period.
In addition to being a historical figure (Abeno Ward and Abeno Station are named after him), Abe no Seimei is also a mythological character in Japanese folklore whose mother was said to be a kitsune (fox spirit). The shrine contains an impressive bronze statues of both Abe no Seimei and the aforementioned fox spirit. I have to admit, I found this shrine much more interesting than Abe no Oji.
Fortune Telling Figures
Seimei is also worshipped as a fortune telling god. My wife bought an omikuji fortune telling figure of a crow at Abe no Oji, but I a scored an awesome figure of a kitsune fox with a red pentagram at Abe no Seimei Shrine. Rush and Black Sabbath fans take note: Abe no Seimei’s personal seal was a pentagram. In Japan the mystical five-pointed symbol is known as seimei or seimei kikyo in his honor.
During World War II, a bomb fell on the grounds of the shrine during the Great Osaka Air Raid, but it did not explode, leaving the shrine unharmed. As a result, locals began to say that “Seimei-san protected us,” and since then, the shrine has been venerated as a guardian against disasters.
Visitors who don’t read Japanese might walk past one of the most interesting historical artifacts without knowing its significance: remains of a well used for the birth bath of Abe no Seimei. Imagine if that bomb had exploded, all of these priceless treasures would have been lost!
Tenshin Hanten Chinese Restaurant中国料理 点心飯店
Address:5-6 Abeno Motomachi, Abeno-ku, Osaka 545-0034. Tel: 06-6623-8514. Open: 17:30-22:30. Closed: Wed
After visiting temples in the hot sun all afternoon, we were ready to eat a nice dinner. On a previous visit to the area I spotted an old machichuka type restaurant called Tenshin Hanshin but it was closed. This time the lights were on and the red noren was out. I cannot resist a good meal at an old neighborhood Chinese restaurant.
I am a big fan of tenshinhan (crab omelet over rice), but I have never tried tenshinmen with ramen noodles. It was very tasty but I definitely prefer the texture of tenshinhan. My wife ordered yasai itame, vegatable stir fry, and we split an order of gyoza, which was flattened and charred to perfection. Perfect with a very cold mug of beer on such a hot summer day.
One thing I love about going to a restaurant like this is seeing couples come in with small children, knowing that their parents probably took them to the very same restaurant when they were kids. It was nice listening to friendly banter between the owner and his loyal customers.
Matsumushi Station 松虫停留場
Matsumushi translated literally as “pine insect” , which is an unusual name for a station. Whenever I see the station sign I think of the Shonen Knife song “Insect Collector” for some reason. Though most of the few shops and restaurants near the station appear to be permanently closed, the neighborhood retains a charming atmosphere perfect for a leisurely stroll. It’s an ideal setting to capture the beauty of smaller, older buildings and houses.
Bar Igi Nashi 意義なし！
Address: 1-1 Matsumushidori, Abeno-ku, 545-0043. Tel: N/A. Open 19:00-23:00.
Eiji Harmada was first introduced in the very first article in this series. He is a folk musician and a former member of the Osaka noise band Daimyo Gyoretsu that is notorious for almost burning down a club called Bayside Jenny located next to the Kaiyukan Aquarium in 1996. Harmada owns a tiny bar next to Matsumushi Station that is named after an album by folksinger Mikami Kan.
Despite its tiny, cramped space, Bar Igi Nashi occasionally hosts live performances, including several shows by the talented Mikami Kan. It’s a wonderful experience to see an artist of his caliber in such an intimate setting, surrounded by just 8 or 9 devoted fans. I should mention that Igi Nashi is located on the first floor of Harmada’s house, which only enhances the cozy, at-home vibe you feel inside.
David Novak: Author of Japanoise
I had been to Igi Nashi a couple of times in the past, but once I discovered the joys of riding the Hanakai Line I started to go more often and bring friends. My old friend David Novak told me he was headed to Osaka this summer on the way to Indonesia. David is a professor in the Department of Music at UC Santa Barbara. He wrote an excellent book called Japanoise: Music at the Edge of Circulation, about the underground noise scene in Japan that includes artists such as Merzbow, Masonna, Hijo Kaidan and C.C.C.C. I figured he would love this place.
David and Eiji hit it off right away and we had a great time drinking beers and talking about music. Eiji played a few songs for us and then passed the guitar to David. It reminded me what a night out in Osaka was like before most of us got addicted to our smart phones. Harmada sells drinks from his refrigerator, usually canned beer or chu-hi. Japan has really lax laws about selling alcohol, and it seems relatively easy to open a bar—even one in your own home!
Peter Larson of Bulb / Dagoretti Records
In September, Musician/Writer/Professor Peter Larson made his annual visit to Osaka. Pete was a member of the band Couch and started a label called Bulb Records that released punk, no-wave and experimental music. He lived in Osaka for about three years in the 90s and speaks Osaka-ben fluently. While in Japan, Pete discovered King Brothers while they were still in high school and released their first album. After living in Kenya for a few years, he started Dagoretti Records in order to release music by musicians who play the nyatiti, an instrument that Larson has also mastered. Check out Dr Pete Larson and his Cytotoxic Nyatiti band here.
Pete was on a very tight schedule. I wanted to show him Sumiyoshi Taisha, but it started to rain heavily and Peter doesn’t carry an umbrella for some reason. Not wanting the good doctor to catch pneumonia, I contacted Eiji and asked him if he could open Igi Nashi early just for us. Eiji said he would need at least 45 minutes to get ready, so we killed time by stopping at Okonomiyaki Goshiki (see above).
Once we arrived at Igi Nashi, we wasted no time in reminiscing about underground bands from the 90s such as Love or Die, Solmania and Hard Core Dude. Eiji started to play I Wanna Be Your Dog by The Stooges, but couldn’t get it quite right. Pete, a Michigan native, picked up a guitar and showed him how it’s done. We ended up spending over two hours there, and Pete never got to see Sumiyoshi Taisha, but sometimes you have a better time just going with the flow at a hole-in-the wall. The major attractions will always be there.
Beautiful Clutter: Marie Kondo’s Nightmare
A couple of weeks later, I hopped off the tram at Matsumushi Station with my buddies Ross and Tatsuya. Eiji was surprised to learn that he and Tatsuya share a mutual friend: a high school classmate of Tatsuya who attended a show at Bar Igi Nashi. We joked that Marie Kondo would be appalled at the clutter in this tiny bar, but as Matt Alt of The Japan Times noted, there is life changing magic in clutter.
Abeno Station 阿倍野留場
Not to be confused with Abenobashi Station on the Kintetsu Minami Osaka Line, this tram stop connects to Abeno Station on the Osaka Metro Tanimachi Line. If you make a right and head Northeast on foot for two minutes (170 meters) you will come across an area that has nice selection of small, interesting standing bars and restaurants, some hidden away in narrow alleys. I asked a few of the proprietors if this area has a special name such as Ura Tennoji or Ura Abeno, but they all told me that there is no such moniker to distinguish it from other parts of Abeno. That’s a good sign that the masses haven’t discovered this area yet so act fast!
BURGER&TACOS IAKATORIH
Address: 8-3 Abenosuji 3 Chome, Abeno-ku, Osaka, 545-0052. Tel: 06-6654-3086. Open: 11:00-21:00. Instagram
Osaka has a fair share of great hamburger shops that rival the best burger joints in the USA and abroad. One of the very best I have been to is located in the aforementioned area of Abeno. Burgers and Tacos IAKATORIH is a mouthful to pronounce until you read it backwards: Hiro Takai, which I assumed was the name of the owner. The actual owner is a very friendly gentleman named Hiroki Nanno, who told me that he named the shop after a person who helped him out. Hiroki Nanno also owns Bar Call Me Tell Me and Italian standing bar Bacaro.
In Search of the Perfect Burger
I first learned about Burgers and Tacos IAKATORIH from a familiar source: Photographer extraordinaire John Podeszwa posted about it way back in December 2023 on the Osaka Dot Com Instagram account. Wes Wesson was in the area this past summer and stopped in to try their triple cheeseburger. The California native has a passion for what he calls “roadside” burgers, the old fashioned type of burgers that were sold at mom and shops along the highway that were served up to hungry travelers (Shake Shack basically made billions with the concept).
Old Wes sends me a message saying he just had the best triple cheeseburger in his five decades on the planet. He was raving about how it had that “perfect roadside taste” and more. He liked it so much that he tried to go again the following week with his son but the shop was closed. We all have moments in which we hype up a restaurant a bit too much, but I had no doubt in my mind that Wes was dead serious. We met at Abenobashi Station, drank a few beers on the steps outside of Hoop, and then headed to Burgers and Tacos IAKATORIH.
Triple Cheeseburger Fever
We were lucky to snag a table when we arrived. Wes insisted I had to try the triple: “How many times in your life do you get the chance to eat a triple cheeseburger?” (He had a point!) Our burgers arrived quickly, and at first glance, I could only gasp at their size and presentation. This cheeseburger looked like it was ready to model for Japanese plastic food samples. It could stroll down the block and make a Whopper or Big Mac feel like they needed to bulk up. This cheeseburger deserves to replace the sad, skimpy one on the wikipedia page for cheeseburgers. That’s how good it looked!
I must have spent a good three minutes staring at those beautiful triple beef patties, smothered in luscious blond melted cheese and topped with ruby-red tomatoes, all nestled on a bed of crunchy lettuce between two of the finest buns this side of… “Snap out of it, man,” I told myself. “It’s just a cheeseburger, not the 1972 Playmate of the Year. Do you have to objectify everything?” When I finally took a bite, it was pure perfection, and I tried to savor every moment. It felt like I was experiencing a cheeseburger for the very first time. I expected to feel bloated after downing three patties, but the quality of the meat was so good that I felt fantastic for the rest of the evening.
In-N-Out Superfan Tries the Triple Cheeseburger
A week later, Wes and I invited our good friends Mark and Cliff to IAKATORIH. We wanted them to enjoy the burgers as much as we did—and also needed their second opinion to confirm we hadn’t lost our minds. Cliff was the perfect pick, given his status as an In-N-Out Burger superfan; every time he visits his hometown in California, he makes multiple stops there. He even showed up in an In-N-Out t-shirt, which caught the attention of owner Hiroki Nanno. As it turns out, Hiroki had visited In-N-Out multiple times for research! Cliff handed him some In-N-Out anniversary stickers, and the two immediately bonded. Now, all that was left was for Cliff to try the triple cheeseburger.
For those who feel like eating less, the shop offers a single (¥780) or double cheese burger (¥980) that will fill you up, but we insisted that all first-timers try the triple cheeseburger as an initiation ritual. Cliff was up for the challenge. His verdict: “The owner is a fan of In-n-Out Burger, so I totally understand how he wanted to create a similar burger, “with a twist” (it’s the sauce) in Osaka with the same characteristics: Toasted bun, non-frozen “seasoned” ground beef (at least that’s what the patty texture feels like), VERY fresh veggies (tomato, lettuce, onions) WOW!! Do the triple burger at least once if you visit!”
More Than Just Cheeseburgers
There are two more burgers that you must order. The Smokey BBQ Sauce Burger with Bacon and Habanero blends all the flavors perfectly. When I went with my wife she got triple cheeseburger and I tried the Truffle Cheese Egg Burger, which was mind blowing. I realize that I have spent a lot of ink on the burgers without mentioning the tasty tacos. They are also made with same intricate care. Try them!
Gyutan Specialty Shop
As we were leaving I asked Hiroki-san how to pronounce the name of the shop. He said that he is thinking of changing the name to Jackass Burger in order to franchise. But that wasn’t the most interesting tidbit of the evening. On the train home my wife tells me that all the burgers patties are 100% gyutan, beef tongue. In fact it is known as a gyutan specialty shop. How did we miss the most important detail? It says so clearly on the sign outside. That explains the wonderful texture. Consider me a devoted fan of the gyutan burger from now on.
Tachinomi A 立ち呑み『あ』
Address: 5-38 4-Chome Matsuzaki-cho, Abeno-ku, Osaka, 545-0043. Tel: 090-2285-8756. Open: M-F 16:00-22:00. Sat-Sun 15:00-22:00. Closed: Tues. Facebook
After leaving BURGER &TACOS IAKATORIH, we walked in the opposite direction in order to go to a place that Eiji Harmada introduced me to called Tachinomi A, which opened in what was formerly the rehearsal space for bands that played Rock Shokudo, a bar and performance space next door. I dropped in with Peter Larson last month and we had a pleasant chat with the owners. The master is almost 80 and plays guitar for a popular local reggae band that just had a show at Tin’s Hall.
This time, Akechan Bar happened to have a pay-what-you wish live show going on when we arrived. I was really in the mood to see live music, but unfortunately the place was packed to capacity with music fans, most of them seniors. So we peeked into Rock Shokudo. It was also packed with a similar crowd. I was a bit disappointed, but then I thought that it was fantastic that people are still going out and seeing live music in their “golden years.”
In recent years, Okinawa has been recognized as a blue zone, highlighting the long life expectancy of its residents. However, I believe Osaka deserves similar recognition. Everywhere I go, I see older individuals enjoying life to the fullest, relishing good friends, delicious food, and great music. I have no worries about aging in Japan; there’s more than enough to keep you engaged and happy well into your hundredth year.
Tennoji Ekimae 天野寺駅前
This is the last stop on our journey. Ordinarily, this would be the place in which I purchase my Take Take one day pass and board the tram, but it’s always fun to start off somewhere else for a change. Abeno Harukas, Mio shopping mall and Tennoji Zoo are all in walking distance.
Akanoren 赤のれん あべ地下店
Address: 〒543-0056 Osaka City, Tennoji Ward, Horikoshi-cho 14, Abeno Underground Mall, Abeno Yokocho. Open: 10:00-22:00.
For the very last restaurant on this tour, I wanted to go to someplace really special. I chose Akanoren which is located in the Avetika underground shopping mall built in 1968 that connects Tennoji Station to Tennoji Park. I had seen a photo of Akanoren in a magazine on the 100 best drinking spots of Osaka that I purchased in 2017, but it took seven more years until I finally made it there with an old friend: Dominic Al-Badri, the former editor of the Kansai Time Out, a very influential magazine that was published from 1977-2009.
Dominic was the editor who gave me my start at the Kansai Time Out. Who knows—without him, you might not be reading this article on your phone, tablet, or computer. The least I could do was treat him to a beer and a fine Osaka meal (though we split the check). Akanoren is one of those classic Osaka spots with a single counter and a menu packed with just about anything you might be craving. I could list dozens of items, but it’s easier to just click here and see most of what they offer.
Kansai Time Out Memories
Dominic and I had a great time reminiscing about the good old days of Kansai Time Out while the customers around us chatted loudly in the Osaka dialect—no need for formalities in a place like this. Honestly, I don’t even remember exactly what we ordered, but it was delicious, and the drinks were cold and refreshing. A few weeks later, I brought my wife here, and she loved the karaage and sushi set, saying it reminded her of the places her parents used to take her when she was little. It felt nice to have a go-to spot in the heart of Tennoji.
As Dave Grohl sings: I’ve got a confession to make (too soon?) On the day of this article’s deadline, I dug up an old 2017 magazine, thinking it featured Akanoren—but I was shocked to find the photo that caught my eye was actually of a completely different restaurant called Hamadaya, which closed down a few years ago. Classic mix-up, but honestly, I’m glad it led me to discover this wonderful spot by accident.
