Table of Contents
Introduction
Earlier this year, I was invited to go out for drinks by a group of friends who get together a few times a year to go barhopping at dive bars in Osaka and other parts of Kansai. This time, they planned to explore the area around Kintetsu Fuse Station, located in Higashiosaka, a city in Osaka Prefecture that doesn’t get many foreign tourists. They told me that there are many old standing bars and izakaya nearby.
I first met this group of friends in 2017 but hadn’t been out for a hop in the past few years.
Why? Well…
I’ve been sober since 2021.
People get sober for a variety of reasons, and I mainly looked at this decision as an opportunity for a fresh change of perspective. I’ve stuck with it for four years, and at the time, government mandates forced everyone to isolate at home. I now faced a similar dilemma with the invitation: isolate at home to remain sober or go out with friends, risking my sobriety. My father used to say, “If you sit long enough at the barbershop, you’ll eventually get a haircut.”
I didn’t want to overthink it, and reminded myself, “Friends are friends. Simple as that.” And so, I said yes.
Photo Walk in Fuse
Soon after, I received another message—this time from Matt, my editor, who was also invited. He asked if I wanted to meet earlier to scout the area together. I agreed and adjusted my schedule for the day. We met an hour before everyone else was scheduled to arrive at Fuse Station, just two stops from Tsuruhashi on the on the Osaka Line. I spotted Matt right away—his signature, well-worn Hanshin Tiger baseball cap was hard to miss.
After a quick greeting, he shared with me our first mission for the day: find a croquette shop that had been in business for over 50 years. We started out, with Matt taking the lead, and came across Konishi Saketen, a 100-year-old standing bar that we were all looking forward to visiting for some time. Upon closer inspection, we noticed a note on the shutter and learned that they were closed for the day.
“No matter. A minor setback. On to the next!”. We weren’t going to let our brief disappointment set the tone for the day.
We continued, with Matt leading and me behind, camera in hand, searching for something to photograph. If you’re not careful in Osaka, you might miss something really interesting. This approach comes a lifelong lesson learned from friends and family:
“Document everything. You never know how your picture might be used in the future.”
Walking further down the wide sidewalks past retro shops, a shop owner crossed our path to put up clothes on a sales rack. I wondered how long they’ve been in business and how long their sale had been going on. I’ve heard about other places in Osaka having a going-out-of-business sale lasting for 10 years.
Crossroads
We kept walking, and the more we walked, the harder it was to find the croquette shop. Also, the time to meet our friends at the station was rapidly approaching. We abandoned our search for the moment and started to head back. With my camera still in hand, I noticed some graffiti I’ve seen before all throughout Osaka: “Devil”. I lined up my shot and filled the frame with this graffiti. Before shooting, I noticed a cyclist approaching from the corner of my eye. I waited until the cyclist entered the frame and snapped the photo.
Across the street, I spotted a unique storefront mural for a now-defunct club called Cross Road. The wall was adorned with the names of 15 legendary jazz musicians including Jelly Roll Morton, Coleman Hawkins, Benny Goodman, and Lester Young, accompanied by cameo portraits that added to its faded charm.
Meeting Friends
We arrived back at the station and waited for our friends. Tatsuya and and his wife Masako arrived, and their kind and friendly nature has always been comforting. As we caught up, someone mentioned that our friend Shuichi had a daughter living nearby. I wasn’t fully following the conversation and mistakenly thought she would be joining us. Finally, Shuichi and his friend Toshie arrived, and without thinking, I asked them a personal question—one I instantly regretted. I had put my foot in my mouth and misread the room.
In the past, I would drink away this embarrassment, but now I would have to find another way to cope.
Nevertheless, we started our way to a nearby standing bar. Peeking through the noren curtains, we saw it was packed. On to the next!
A Sign from Above
We headed back to the main shopping street, and this time, I noticed something new on the sign above— a phrase I hadn’t caught before:
“Friendly Fuse.” It was written in Japanese like this: フランドーリ ふせ.
I was about to put this claim to the test—as a sober person.
Hizaki Saketen
Standing bars are the group’s priority, so we kept searching past different shops. After several unsuccessful attempts, we returned around to the first bar we tried, which was called Hizaki Saketen. This time, they waved us in, saying they’d make room for all six of us.
One point for “Friendly Fuse.”
My friends ordered half-liters of lager beer and cocktails, while I ordered an oolong tea. The moment I placed my order, I tensed up, thinking I saw the staff do a double take.
Sensing my anxiety, real or imagined, Matt quickly stepped in. “He’s driving and can’t drink,” he said in Japanese.
That explanation seemed to satisfy them—Japan has strict drunk-driving laws, after all.
When the drinks arrived, we all raised our glasses for a toast. They clinked their beers, and I lifted my tea. To anyone watching, it might’ve looked unusual, but I started to relax and leaned into the moment. Drinks served and food starting to arrive, I noticed that the dishes were simple, yet surprisingly diverse. They had tofu, octopus, thinly-sliced meat and fish, among other food on the menu. I liked their omelette the best.
Tachinomi Hiro-san
Once we settled the bill, we had time before the next bar on our list opened. Wandering around, we came across a chalk drawing of Ariel from The Little Mermaid under a sign with a beer for a standing bar called Tachinomi Hiro-san.
The striking contrast left me confused, but my friends reminded me that bars in Japan can be designed to make everyone feel welcome.
Another point for Friendly Fuse.
More half-liter bottles of beer were served, and we ordered the food. We had the space to ourselves, and I felt welcome. My friends struck up a conversation with the owner and staff about their dog. I enjoyed listening to them speak Kansai-dialect.
Iwasaki Saketen
The time came to move on to the next bar on the list—Iwasaki Saketen. It is a well-frequented liquor store with an adjacent standing bar, distinguishing it from a traditional kaku-uchi.
A kaku-uchi (角打ち) is a type of Japanese liquor store where customers can drink alcohol on-site, typically while standing. These establishments often have a no-frills atmosphere, focusing on affordable drinks and a casual social setting.
We parted the curtains—an invitation to peek inside.
Crowded again.
“Can you make room for six?” we asked, anticipating a ‘No’ answer. In most places, especially downtown, they won’t hesitate to tell you that they are full. However, they surprised us.
They could make room for six. Friendly Fuse is on a roll.
Drinks again ordered, and the food came soon after. Out of all the dishes, I noticed the aji fry (deep-fried horse mackerel). It’s a popular dish that’s affordable and usually served in healthy portions. It surprised me to find shredded lettuce and a cherry tomato on the plate.
One highlight of Iwasaki was a punk flyer on the wall behind us. Matt pointed it out, and a nearby customer chimed in:
“That’s me, from ten years ago.”
We finished and took a group picture in front of the shop’s signature blue curtain—me still sober, my friends a little greased up.
“On to the next place!”
Awajiya
The next place, Awajiya, would be the highlight of the hop for me. Five years ago, I tried to visit Awajiya, but it was shut down because of the pandemic. I had heard it was a great place, and I was excited to finally go today.
Walking through their curtains, I noticed the interior reminded me of one from a different time, like the Showa Era. It featured a U-shaped counter in the center and tables for four on either side. The kitchen and food were prepared behind the counter, and I enjoyed observing the chefs at work
We sat down at two tables on the left. After ordering from the menu on the wall or the one given to us at the table, I looked around and wondered what it would have been like to visit this place 40 years ago.
Masako and Toshie, seated at my table, ordered hot sake. As they clinked their glasses with my oolong tea, they seemed to enjoy the moment. However, the hot sake proved to be one drink too much for them, leading to a sudden shift in their demeanor. They started speaking more freely, and while I understood their Japanese, I lacked the confidence to respond fluently.
Instead, I listened.
They told me they valued my patience and kindness toward others, and I truly took their words to heart. I had often heard people outside of Kansai say that Osaka locals are warm and sincere, and now I was experiencing it firsthand.
Tonkatsu and Tulip Chicken
The food arrived. Two dishes that stood out were: tonkatsu and tulip chicken. The latter is a distinctive way of preparing chicken, where the meat is turned inside-out to expose the bone before being seasoned and deep fried. Their simple presentation, combined with small touches like a slice of lemon, enhanced the flavor of an already delicious dish. I also appreciated the thoughtful decoration on their plates.
TACHINOMI-YA
We finished the day at one last place, mainly to catch our breath. It was a small, out-of-the-way spot, away from crowds or other distractions.
The interior was compact, with a counter and just two small tables for two behind it. There were five people at the counter, and I took a seat behind them. They quickly made room for me, and drinks were ordered, and food dishes arrived. It had been a long day, and everyone was feeling the effects, including me. We didn’t have to worry about others, and the staff seemed okay with us. She didn’t speak much, sensing we all needed the rest.
Croquette Shop: Found at Last!
After taking our last picture for the day together, we started to head back to the station. We came across the aforementioned croquette shop we had been looking for earlier. It was part of a restaurant called Kinokuniya. We placed our order, and I wasn’t paying much attention to anything else. I almost didn’t notice Tatsuya casually mention that croquettes are considered “poor man’s food.” I had paid my 100 yen confidently and ate the delicious croquette from a shop with over 50 years in business.
So, there you have it—a dive into the drinking scene around Fuse Station, from a sober person’s perspective. Does it pass the Friendly Fuse test? Absolutely. I hope you don’t hesitate to visit local spots around Osaka, even if you don’t drink. Just buy something to eat and drink, other than a free glass of water, and you’ll be fine. Remember, it’s important to be yourself while in Osaka. The people value authentic interactions, so it’s not always about drinking—they’ll genuinely enjoy your company.
Great story, Ross! I enjoyed the flow and the sincerity of the article as well as the Tongue In Cheek comments and the comment from your father! The photography was great as well. I particularly liked the photo of all of you lined up at the bar counter, as well as the lady at the grilled eel booth! FUSE has always been a hard nut to crack for some. I think this guide will give would be hoppers a little insight. Cheers and keep up the good work! WES.