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A quick stop at Tenma Market
Every time I get sick of the crowds in Umeda I like to escape to Tenjinbashisuji shopping arcade East of Umeda. As a lover of retro Osaka, this historic shotengai is said to be the biggest in Japan and has many hidden gems old and new. I put “area” in the title because I wanted to include Tenma’s “Tenma Ichiba” (Tenma Market) too. Since it’s so close to the arcade I always checkout both whenever I’m here. Getting off at the Tenma station you’re right in the middle of it all!
Tenma Ichiba is just a turn down an alleyway off the main arcade, this intriguing building is an old fashioned farmers market that reminded me of some I saw in Taiwan a few years ago. These days you don’t see old-style shops like these anymore, it’s unique and worth a visit since it’s right off the main drag.
This is the entrance to å¤©æº€å¸‚å ´ Which says “Tenma Ichiba” in Japanese. Another interesting thing about this “farmers market” is that it’s indoors. Outside the building there are winding alleyways with many interesting shops as well. Walking through the maze of independent stalls is a refreshing respite from the sea of chain stores in Umeda. I love supporting these mom-and-pop establishments.
Which is a good segway into where I ate lunch. In an alleyway a few steps away from the Tenma Market I found a shop with a sign that said “Aji Jiman Takoyaki” which means “braggable taste, takoyaki.” What drew my attention was the yellow color of the balls.
It reminded me of Akashiyaki which is the Kobe “Akashi” style of takoyaki which uses egg instead of wheat (thus the color.) The price was 10 for 300 yen (unbelievably cheap -another reason to get away from costly downtown: great deals!)
Another thing that impressed me was that it’s family-run. The 90 year old grandmother, her granddaughter, and great granddaughter were all working the place and it was too cute. To add to the adorable was the Sesame Street table cloth and decorative cartoon cup filled with barley tea included in the payment.
As if that wasn’t enough to win my heart, the grandma said she’d been running the place for 70 years! I tried to do the math counting backwards… in business since… 1956? And she never felt the need to retire -it gives her a chance to see her family!
While waiting for the takoyaki I gazed down the long narrow alleyways of Tenma. These small paths look worn with history and are what give this area so much character. Just down the end of the walkway was Tenma Market.
The takoyaki came and it was as delicious as I’d hoped. The flavor was unlike any i’d had before, somewhere between traditional and Akashi type. The grandmother informed me she was indeed inspired by the Kobe style. When I paid they said I get a discount: only costs 250 yen. “You must be kidding,” I thought, “how can this business survive?” I wanted to insist but they’d already handed me the change and I didn’t want to be rude.
It was time to head back to the Tenma Market through the long strange passageways. I love these corrugated roofs and draping cloths.
This is what greeted me when I walked in to the market: the first line of stalls. But as you progress further you discover it’s a winding labyrinth. Store after store: Japanese tea, pickled vegetables, fish, fruits, Chinese imports, kimchi etc.
In the fish section I was marveling at the lobsters thrashing around in the tub. I felt bad for the little guys but they looked delicious! A guy next to me asked about the giant shellfish and the owner explained they were grown in sea water which made them somewhere in between wild and farmed. In markets like these you can meet the merchants and gain valuable info! I was touched that some of them knew their customers by name. One older woman received a bag full of oranges “these are really sweet, obaachan” the owner said as he offered them to her.
In addition to a whole other level of stores, downstairs also had a unique supermarket that sold wholesale imported foods aimed at restauranteurs. It reminded me of Gyomu Super but much more extensive.
When I was done here I headed back to the Tenjinbashi Shotengai.
A quick stop at Tamade
With a colorful sign like this, how can you resist going inside Tamade market? Best known for the colors and cheap food this store is quintessential Osaka!
The cute interior of the store adds to the fun of finding great stuff scattered throughout. The fresh foods and bentos are on the first floor and upstairs are the dried foods and snacks.
I was shocked at the Chirashi Sushi for 348 yen? Inside that’s salmon, egg, eel, tuna, and squid atop a bed of egg strips and lotus root. It’s a steal!
Here is a crispy “sara udon” for 298 yen -includes fresh colorful bell pepper strips and a napa cabbage. Eating out at a chanpon style restaurant like “Ringer Hut” would set you back around 1000 yen -so this is a great deal. With places like Tamade you can live in Osaka on a budget!
They also sell some great merch too! These would make great gifts to bring back home as souvenirs! Often made in limited edition, if you see something you like make sure to buy it now!
Walking down the shotengai
Across from Tamade is a Korean restaurant that uses olive oil to make fried chicken, “BBQ Olive Chicken Cafe.” If you’re a health nut like me who avoids fried food this may be perfect for you -it’s guilty free! Checking the reviews and photos on Google maps it looks like a “korean version” of KFC and offers stuff like Yanyom chicken. Highly intriguing and well rated but since I already ate takoyaki I passed on going there today. For lovers of KFC and Korean flavors this looks like a place worth trying!
For fans of retro Osaka cafes there are many of them that line the shopping arcade. You can stop by to get a caffeine boost or a parfait immersed in vintage ambiance.
This one in particular, Coffee House Victor, looks to have some intriguing items! Just the amount of different parfaits alone make this place unique: strawberry, cream puff, chocolate, fruits, or pudding flavor. And on the bottom you have a sundae version of those in addition to a pancake set that looks appetizing too! (If you aren’t running here now after this description I’ll have to check your pulse.)
Along the drag there are all kinds of strange stores and if you keep an eye out you scan spot some unique things! Going from left to right I found a turtle in a bag, cat and dog key covers, and a “hair-dry cap” whatever that is.
This fun character selling Panasonic electronics was screaming to be photographed. I love the extra effort that Japanese people take to make shopping a “cute” experience.
One thing I also wanted to mention was the chain stores like these selling takoyaki/okonomiyaki etc. With the big bold graphics and clean storefronts I recommend avoiding places like these. Like the family run business I went to previously, search out a mom-and-pop place down one of the alleyways or a gritty older looking storefront if you can that has some history. You are bound to get a better taste and perhaps make a friend!
Washita Shop
Covered by Osaka Dot Com previously, this is the famous Okinawa imported foods store Washita Shop’s Tenjinbashi Suji location. Make sure to stop here to get your kokuto black sugar, Spam and other Ryukyu style ingredients! As a bonus, on Saturdays they stock Okinawa’s famous Okiko Pan series flown in every week. Make sure to come early because it sells out quick!
In the picture you can see special noodles used in Okinawa style soba. You can’t find these in a normal Japanese supermarket! The next photo is shikuwasa-flavored alcohol from the island. Bottom left is the famous Blue Seal ice cream sold in little mini cups which include interesting flavors like ube. If you don’t want to eat Okinawa ice cream here you could stroll over to Tsuruhashi and visit the Blue Seal ice cream shop as well!
Tenshinbashisuji 3
As I hit the intersection I noticed that they have broken the shopping arcade into pieces. Crossing the avenue I was entering into Tenshinbashi Suji #3 (you know a shotengai is big when they have to number its sections!)
Costco Reseller “Recommend Retail Market”
Another place along the avenue that I have to mention is “Recommend Retail Market.” As many people don’t have cars in Japan these Costco “reseller” shops are essential for those of us who need easier access. I was so happy when I discovered this store along the passageway.
A great service they provide is allowing you to buy 1 or 2 items while Costco forces you to buy in bulk. Lets say I don’t want 8 gigantic muffins -here I can just get 1 or 2!
With bread and bagels on hand I was shocked they also had Costco refrigerated items as well! According to the catalog you can order anything you want from Costco to be picked up at the store. It’s so convenient who wouldn’t shop here?? And there doesn’t appear to be much of a markup either!
Here is a picture of the store interior to give you an idea of how extensive their selection is. I enjoyed the American sodas and red dixie cups too! It makes you feel like you’ve stepped out of Japan for just a little bit.
2nd Lunch – Il Sole Ten 3
I stopped to get lunch at this special pizza place. They have authentic Naples style pizza. I will cover this more extensively in a future piece, but just take my word for it. The pizza tasted like it was straight out of Italy (and the lunch special is cheap too!)
Happy Camper Bagel
The word has gotten out on this bagel shop, Happy Camper Bagel. With long lines that start prior to opening, if you go on the weekend it’s even worse (according to the Google Maps reviews.)
They’re known for having really interesting flavors, you just have to get in the door to get them before the bagels sell out! That day I was running a little short on time so I didn’t have time to wait 40 minutes in line! I look forward to coming back again to write a review sometime soon! From poking my head in the smell was great and the big American-sized bagels looked appetizing (much bigger than Japanese style bagels which can be light and fluffy -aka they don’t fill you up.)
Osaka Tenmangu
The Osaka Tenmangu shrine is a MUST SEE if you’re visiting this shotengai. With multiple “torii” shrine arches stretching up and down the shopping arcade, you could say the whole shopping arcade is a path leading to here.
You just take a tiny turn off the main thoroughfare to get here -very easy access! On this day they happened to be doing a special event with song and music that was beautiful and thought-evoking.
Another lucky find was a merchant selling plants in the corner of the shrine grounds. For some reason I decided to buy a kumquat tree.
He had many other interesting Japanese plants as well, like sakuranbo cherry, kabosu citrus tree, yuzu tree etc. So if you’re lucky you may be able to find a plant or catch a festival!
Special event
You can buy local foods from other prefectures as well along the boulevard. That day they happened to be selling things from Iga, a city in Mie prefecture. I bought some amazing Iga asparagus (so fresh they said I could eat it raw) and some Iga-grown rape seed oils (I was determined to spend my entire Osaka Dot Com paycheck that day.)
The cool merchant even insisted we take a picture together. He let me wear his nice outerwear to showcase his ninja suit. Why is a ninja selling food you ask? Because Iga is the birthplace of the ninja. All I can say is, he got me to buy a lot of stuff (those were some smooth ninja moves.) But I was glad I did because they all tasted amazing. He said they’ll be back this summer so I look forward to it. We’ll bring some “summer vegetables” he said.
Wanna Manna – Taiwanese Breakfast
Wanna Manna specializes in Taiwanese-style breakfast. This is is another place I didn’t have time to review today. It’s at the very end (or start) of the shotengai and you MUST MUST MUST check it out! They make handmade soy milk and bread and I can’t say enough how interesting this place is. Their Osaka location was so successful they recently opened another restaurant in Tokyo!
A Goodbye
There were many more places along the boulevard I want to talk about but I can’t fit everything into one piece! I hope you’ll come back again for Part II and we can delve into some more hidden and amazing places along the biggest shotengai in Japan, Tenjinbashi Suji! Until next time!
